Based on our recent tastings, I think we have another burgeoning trend on our hands: The evolution and refinement of American Syrah. Today’s wine from Master Sommelier Geoff Kruth, which came our way right after a spectacular offering from Santa Barbara’s Bien Nacido Estate, had us once again waxing rhapsodic about Syrah from California—but from a strikingly different terroir!
Don’t get me wrong: California has been producing world-class Syrah since the early days of the “Rhône Rangers,” but as more and more domestic producers embrace the “Old World” (i.e. Rhône Valley in France) take on Syrah, the number of thrilling bottles like this one has multiplied. Among sommeliers, the Northern Rhône Valley is sacred ground on a par with Burgundy, so it’s no surprise that Geoff is among those looking to emulate the aromatic, savory style of Syrah made in places like Côte-Rôtie, Hermitage, or Saint-Joseph. Whereas many American Syrahs skew more toward Australian Shiraz in style (not a bad thing, by the way), Geoff’s is in the medium-bodied camp, full of tension, perfume, and spice. Ask most sommeliers what they want in a Syrah, and this 2017 is it—and since only 200 cases were made, you’d be wise to act quickly!
This all adds up to a true “cool-climate” Syrah with a very focused, precise feel to it—along with that meaty, spicy, sauvage component that characterizes classic Syrah. In the glass, it displays a deep ruby core with magenta highlights, with perfumed aromas of blackberries, plums, lavender, violets, black pepper, licorice, and warm spices. It is just a shade over medium-bodied, with tangy acidity and fine, firm tannins lending the perfect amount of grip. Decant it about 30 minutes before serving in Burgundy stems and you’ve got an ideal partner for grilled lamb or some nice peppery steaks, both now and over the next 3-5 years. It’s really spot-on, and really exciting to see from California—no doubt there are more thrills to come! Cheers!