We’ve been on a wild California Pinot Noir spree over the last several months, and although there’s (always) more to come, today’s epic offer feels like the culmination because buzzed-about Sta. Rita Hills artisan Ryan Deovlet has offered us the deal of a lifetime. In 2017, he produced just seven barrels of Pinot Noir from the revered and highly acclaimed “Zotovich” vineyard, and after leaving critics slack-jawed and enduring the subsequent onslaught of consumers, only a micro-fraction remains. This diminished trove is now securely in our possession and, with the blessing of Ryan, comes to you at the best price ever witnessed.
However, to focus solely on this incredible one-time deal would be a great disservice to the wine itself because Deovlet’s 2017 “Zotovich” is infinitely more interesting than a simple “value offer.” I say this because today’s bottle may single-handedly be the greatest crash course on an entire region and style. Still don’t think Santa Barbara County is crafting some of the finest Pinot on the planet? Deovlet puts that notion to bed—no, buries it six feet deep—with this 2017 release. Or, maybe you’re not yet privy to the extraordinary gems rising out of this storied terroir. If that’s the case, there are no excuses to miss this offer: For $39 (again a rare, one-time opportunity), it’s among the most perfumed, balanced, richly layered, and downright expressive California Pinot Noirs I’ve had the fortune of trying.
In 1975, Richard Sanford teamed up with Michael Benedict for their first spectacular vintage in Sta. Rita Hills; a domino effect ensued, leading to an appellation designation and a prominent position in winegrowing history. Their stellar talent aside, the array of distinct soils and microclimates here vividly capture the majesty of Burgundian grapes (Pinot Noir & Chardonnay) in a way few places on earth can rival. Like Burgundy, this special appellation was once underwater and now boasts millions of fossilized diatoms, a type of hard-shelled algae, in its sedimentary rock soils. Combine this striking minerality with the cool Pacific-influenced climate and you have a fascinatingly unique pocket of California bursting with potential.
Ryan Deovlet built up years of wine interest bouncing around Australia, New Zealand, and Argentina, but discovered his true winemaking abilities under Stephen Dooley of Stephan Ross Wine Cellars and as the assistant winemaker for Red Car Wine Company. His return to California in 2008 prompted the first-ever release under his own label. Today’s 2017 marks Ryan’s tenth vintage, and within that decade, he’s become a certified winemaking rockstar on the Santa Barbara County wine scene. Just ask Vinous’ Antonio Galloni: “Ryan Deovlet is one of the most exciting young winemakers...his wines, which emerge from some of the top sites in Santa Barbara, are impeccable, pure, and wonderfully transparent to site.”
One of those top sites is Zotovich, and any follower of California wine certainly committed this treasured site to memory long ago. Originally home to a range of Italian varieties, it has now been predominately replanted to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Just like Ryan’s rapid ascendence to fame, Zotovich, too, rocketed into stardom: In just a matter of years, this has become one of the most sought-after sites in the Central Coast, with dozens of producers scrapping for a piece of its precious crop.
Ryan doesn’t source much from here—it’s simply not possible—but what he does emerge with is raised traditionally, with little influence, in order to best express this storied site. During fermentation, he uses partial whole clusters (20%) and then ages the wine for 15 months in 33% new French oak. The result is a California Pinot Noir with explosive, textural fruit combined with sublime minerality and freshness that rivals Burgundy. In the glass, the wine exhibits a highly reflective, deep dark ruby core with magenta highlights on the rim. What I’ve come to love about Deovlet’s wines is the simultaneous blend of richness, purity, and extreme attention to detail, and this ‘17 delivers in spades: An attack of ripe cherries and wild strawberries surge forward, followed by a second wave of black raspberry, boysenberry, and plums. But that’s just right after the cork is pulled—give this about 30 minutes in a decanter and savory eruptions of Hibiscus tea, clay, orange peel, pomegranate oil, goji berry, fresh rose petal, and exotic baking spice charge out of the glass. Medium in body but full in flavor and texture, the palate boasts complex red-fruited flavors that meld with finely crushed minerality and integrated spice. The finish is long, mouthwatering, and impressively complex—really, it’s California Pinot at its most divine. Enjoy now and over the next 5-7 years. Cheers!
