Most of us have been conditioned to think of Muscadet from the Loire Valley as light, slightly spritzy, somewhat salty white wine that goes great with a plateau of oysters. But to age? For ten-plus years? There are a few Loire fanatics out there who’ve beaten that drum—asserting, among other things, that the traditional practice of aging the wines on their lees (yeast sediment) before bottling lends them sneaky longevity. This is indeed true, and the Mélon de Bourgogne grape is blessed with bracing natural acidity as well, which is the key factor in any wine’s capacity to age.
When we tasted this 2005 Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu from Domaine du Haut Bourg, we were surprised (well, actually, not that surprised) by its still-youthful fruit, vibrant acidity, and overall vigor. Its years in bottle have bulked it up somewhat, and lent it an array of aromas well beyond those of green fruits and sea spray, but it is in no way flabby or tired. At this point in its evolution, it’s starting to bear a resemblance to white Burgundy, except for its price. This is an incredible value and a fascinating study in mature white wine. Unless you’re one of the Loire fanatics mentioned above, this will change how you think about Muscadet.
Most Muscadet wines are aged sur lie (“on the less”), meaning they are left in contact with the creamy-looking sediment of spent yeast cells that precipitate out after fermentation. In addition to infusing the wine with a “yeasty” flavor, these sediments also consume oxygen, trapping some of it as the CO2 “spritz” found in most Muscadets and reducing the need for added sulfur as an antioxidant. This bottling from Domaine du Haut Bourg, called “Origine,” is sourced from a single vineyard parcel and subjected to exceptionally long aging on its lees—10 years (!) in underground tanks—before bottling. This 2005 wasn’t bottled and released until the summer of 2015, and the results are amazing. In the same way that so many long-aged, Gran Reserva Rioja reds are mind-bogglingly cheap, we have a hard time comprehending how this wine only costs $24. All we can say, ultimately, is THANK YOU.
Domaine du Haut Bourg dates back to 1945 and is based in the village of Bouaye, in the heart of the Côte de Grandlieu, one of the three areas around the Loire city of Nantes that produce Muscadet sur lie. The Côte de Grandlieu is a rolling plain to the west of the much-larger Sèvre et Maine appellation (there are close to 9,000 hectares of vines planted in the Sèvre et Maine, compared to just 300 in Côte de Grandlieu), where the soils contain more sand and pebbles (compared to the schist and granite of Sèvre et Maine). Côte de Grandlieu wines are typically described as rounder and more fruit-forward Muscadets than those of Sèvre et Maine, and that’s evident in this wine, but there’s no lack of mineral grip or acidic backbone, either. This is a full-throttle expression of the Mélon de Bourgogne grape and the Atlantic-influenced terroir it hails from.
More than a decade of age has lent this 2005 a deep, golden-yellow hue, though there are no signs of “browning” whatsoever at the rim. On the nose, the first aromas that leap out are luscious notes of fresh bread dough, raw hazelnut, and other “leesy” notes—these, it should be stressed, are not nutty, rancid notes from oxidation, but deliciously fresh, inviting sensations. The fruit component, both on the nose and palate, is a tangy mix of yellow apple, pear, peach pit, and melon layered with a dollop of fresh cream and that inimitable blast of salt air and mineral savor that defines Muscadet. The mix of sweet and savory flavors, combined with the still-bracing acidity, makes for an immensely satisfying glass of wine that should not be missed. Crack one open soon and serve it just below cellar temperature (about 50 degrees) with richer fish or shellfish. This
recipe for bouillabaisse should do nicely, and again—this is Muscadet of serious depth and dimension. You need to check it out!
