Although Syrah is coming on strong, Cabernet Sauvignon is still Washington State’s red-wine calling card. Master Sommelier Greg Harrington does both varieties exceptionally well, but what he does best is champion the Columbia Valley. Having been exposed to the greatest wines in the world as a restaurant pro and Master Sommelier, Greg chose Eastern Washington when it came time to make his own leap into winemaking—that says a lot, and his wines at Gramercy Cellars emphatically validate his decision.

I’ll put it bluntly: Columbia Valley Cabernet is a thing, and if it’s not part of your current wine-drinking mix, you are missing out. I tend to think of it as a stylistic midpoint between Bordeaux and Napa; you get the ‘New World’ concentration and supple tannins, along with the ‘Old World’ soil character that lends palpable savor. In Greg’s case, his sommelier instincts lead him to the ‘best-of-the-best’ growers—his lineup reads like a “who’s who” of Eastern Washington viticulture, and as we dig deeper into the stories of these vineyards we gain a greater appreciation of Washington State’s importance as a terroir. I’ll just say, as I have before, that this price point for this wine is simply extraordinary. Leave it to a sommelier to make a world-class Cabernet we can actually afford to drink!

The vital stats on this sumptuous 2015 are as follows: 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot, aged 22 months in 50% new French oak. Just 975 cases were produced, and given the critical reviews it received, I’m a little surprised we got any to offer today. As always, it’s a master class in balance. In the glass, it’s a near-opaque, blackish ruby extending to the rim, with aromatics that would send you in a few directions (Margaux? Mount Veeder?) if you were tasting it blind. The fruit component is red, black, and blue all at once, with everything from blackberry to red currant to cassis intertwined with scents of graphite, tobacco, espresso grounds, chocolate, and wet gravel. The velvety tannins have a telltale New World feel, and while the ripeness and weight are considerable it’s the furthest thing from a fruit bomb. The finish is fresh and darkly savory, with coffee and earth tones lingering long after you’ve finished a sip. In the spirit of the great West Coast Cabernets, this will wow you tonight after 30-60 minutes in a decanter or age gracefully for 10+ years in your cellar. Serve it in large Bordeaux stems with the attached recipe and celebrate one of the best (if not the best) domestic wine buys of the year. Cheers!