In the pantheon of thirst-quenching, appetite-whetting, built-for-the-dining-table mineral white wines, there are five titans that tower above the rest: Chablis; Austrian Grüner Veltliner; Sancerre; dry German Riesling—and, last but certainly not least, Albarino-based whites from Spain’s Rías Baixas region. Stock up on the finest examples from any of the first four categories, and you will soon discover a huge crater in your credit card statement.
Or, you can spend a fraction thereof on any of the top wines from Spain’s undisputed heavyweight champion of bone-dry, deeply mineral Albariño: Do Ferreiro. Do Ferreiro whites are ubiquitous on top restaurant wine lists, always punching far above their price class. Each cuvée is a deeply respected, astonishingly complex classic in its own right, but today we offer what, for me, is the crème de la crème of the estate’s lineup: cellar aged, peak-maturity “Rebisaca.” This is not the most expensive Do Ferreiro wine, but I personally believe it is the most compelling. The one and only caveat is that it requires a little patience. Unlike Do Ferreiro’s other, young-drinking whites, “Rebisaca” demands extended rest before drinking. Fortunately, we’ve solved that riddle today by offering an absolutely peak-drinking example from the 2016 vintage. This beauty will be screamingly delicious for the next 18-24 months and trust me: You don’t want to miss the fireworks!
Founded in 1973, Do Ferreiro is the pride of Gerardo Méndez. Gerardo and his family farm 10 hectares, most of which range from 50 years old to over 200 years old. The family is one of the very few in the Rías Baixas region to follow organic guidelines, avoiding the use of pesticides and non-organic fertilizers. Furthermore, the Méndez family is devoted to the fermentation with only indigenous yeasts, versus the synthetic, paint-by-numbers industrial yeasts that predominate in the region, and often produce simplistic, dumbed-down, “fruity” Albarino. On the contrary, Do Ferreiro, from a collection of over 175 micro-vineyard plots, produces a perennially impressive lineup of deeply mineral and “serious” terroir-driven whites that share a lot more in common with fine Chablis or Sancerre than with mediocre Albarino-in-name-only on the shelf of your local Whole Foods. Look no further than today’s offer if you want to experience a true, grown-up Rías Baixas white.
It’s hard to play favorites with such a devastating lineup, but highest on my personal “greatest hits” list from Do Ferreiro is today’s “Rebisaca.” From just north of Rías Baixas’ border with Portugal, this 70% Albarino / 25% Treixadura / 5% Loureiro blend is Do Ferreiro’s only non-single variety wine. The Treixadura adds pronounced depth and complexity to the equation, but it comes with a consequence: patience. Unlike Do Ferreiro’s other wines, “Rebisaca” is known to require multiple years of cellaring before blossoming into its prime tasting window. Don’t take my word for it, though—read any of the gushing reviews from Vinous, The Wine Advocate, Wine & Spirits, etc, and you will encounter repeated references to (a) this wine’s exceptional quality and (b) it’s slow-to-emerge character. At 3.5 years young, this beauty is entering its prime drinking window and does not disappoint.
The 2016 Rebisaca pierces the glass with light golden and amber tones. Waving farewell to the final vestiges of cellar aging, it arrives on a chilly, austere gust of wet oyster shell, underripe stone fruit and saline/ocean aromas—but it doesn’t take long for the party to get started! After a second or third swirl in the glass, the veil is lifted to reveal a riot of exotic green mango, pluot skin, and electrifying lime zest notes. The vivid, luscious intensity of the fruit stands in perfectly balanced contrast to the wine’s riveting stony, mineral core. It’s a spellbinding drinking experience and an absolutely thrilling wine with which to pair homemade Asian cuisine. My wife poured me a glass three nights ago alongside wok-sautéed bok choy and hand-cut Chinese noodles with garlic and five-spice pork. That first glass soon became an empty bottle, and I can recall few white wines that bobbed and weaved so capably with such a challenging barrage of exotic aromas and spices. Still, there’s no disputing that the “comfort zone” for top tier Rías Baixas whites is, and always will be shellfish, seafood, and fresh cheeses. Like Chablis or Sancerre, this bottle is a brilliant selection for beginning any special night—the vivacity and freshness open one’s palate and set the perfect starting line for a long, indulgent meal. Simply serve in large Bordeaux stems at 45-50 degrees. With a wine this good and so perfectly aged, there is no other fancy preparation necessary—And at such a modest price, you can enjoy it regularly throughout the next two years of its prime drinking window! Cheers!
