I want to tell you a story about a grape called Persan. Never heard of it? You will soon. With roughly nine hectares planted in its native Savoie, most Persan goes straight down the throats of lucky locals, often chased by a mouthful of fondue.
But just like rising-star varieties like Assyrtiko (Greece) and Frappato (Sicily), the Savoie’s Persan is too good to stay under the radar for long. Its juiciness, depth, and irrefutable ageability make wine nerds and sommeliers salivate, plus its exaggerated scarcity gives this Alpine variety extra cachet. Persan is slowly embarking on a journey of rediscovery, cropping up on trendy wine lists thanks to producers like Domaine Giachino, who are planting and promoting the ancient variety with infectious enthusiasm. The team at Giachino blend their Persan with Gamay to create the perfect “gateway drug” to the fascinating, mineral-etched world of Savoie reds. Today’s “Frères Giac” has Beaujolais-style fruit, Nebbiolo-style backbone, and Syrah-style pepper and flowers. It’s a delicious and exciting mouthful, perfectly balanced, and dangerously drinkable...especially with the aforementioned cheese. This is off the beaten wine path, the magic zone where vintners are freed from all expectations. Take a walk on the wild side and meet Persan before the rest of the wine world falls in love—there won’t be enough for everyone!
Domaine Giachino is the brainchild of brothers Fréderic and David, whose family has farmed the Grésivauden plains for centuries, nestled high in the French Alps. First, it was fruits, nuts, and grains, with just 1.5 hectares of grapes on the slopes of Mount Granier, in the Chartreuse mountain range. When Frédéric took over from his grandfather in 1988, he decided to focus on viticulture and gradually expanded his holdings to today’s 9 hectares. Domaine Giachino achieved organic certification in 2006, the result of Frédéric’s hard work and research. The land is rugged, the climate is harsh, and the plots of vine are minuscule. It’s backbreaking work to hike up and down the steep slopes at the base of the mountain, manually harvesting grapes into wicker baskets. Frédéric and David take it on with a smile, making wine “based on respect for humanity and the environment.”
The craggy clay-and-limestone vineyards of Savoie are well-suited to Persan, which prefers calcareous soils to produce tightly packed bunches of robust grapes. The variety is known for its tannins, bright acidity, and almost exotically fruity notes. Gamay lightens and softens the blend to marry ageability with immediate pleasure, although there are at least eight years of aging potential in this juicy 2018. Domaine Giachino uses zero chemical additives in neither the vineyard nor the winery. Macerations can last between 10 and 20 days before the Gamay sleeps in oak vats and the Persan gradually develops richness on its fine lees. The wines are bottled with minimal—if any—sulfur additions, perfectly preserved by the inherent balance and acidity of the organically farmed fruit.
I recommend serving “Frères Giac” at a crisp 60 degrees—that slight chill will bring its expressive wild-berry fruit into sharper focus. The Persan gives the wine vivid color, while the Gamay keeps it from being too concentrated: it’s a beautiful pale ruby. The first notes are pomegranate juice and tart raspberries with a good dose of white pepper. It’s floral and playful, with a candy-and-cool-earth quality that makes me think of Cru Beaujolais. But underneath the fruit and flowers is firm minerality and bracing Alpine acidity—that’s Savoie’s unmistakeable craggy soils and altitude coming through. Fine, firm tannins give structure to exuberant strawberry notes on the palate. This wine falls squarely in the “dangerously drinkable” category—it’s supple, low in alcohol, and lightweight for a flavorful red. It’s impossible to put the glass down. Make the bottle last a little bit longer with an equally irresistible food pairing, something rich and cheesy in the regional tradition of Savoie. I’d recommend a decadent Quiche Lorraine stuffed to the brim with lardons and Gruyère. Cool wine and hot quiche makes for a long evening of good conversation. Cheers!
