Olivier Giroux’s mesmerizing Burgundian whites are not for generic drinkers or label chasers, and you will find no famous village nor fancy “cru” ranking adorning his conservative labels. Furthermore, only a small allocation is exported to the US each vintage and even fewer bottles elude collectors long enough to grace retail store shelves—so unless you or someone you know is a certified Burgundy addict, the chances are you haven’t encountered these stunning wines.
Still, all it takes is one taste to confirm that Giroux’s whites—and especially today’s “Clos des Rocs Monopole,” his top bottling—are some of the most thrilling in all of southern Burgundy. It’s no wonder that an ever-growing, ever-louder global chorus of wine professionals is singing Giroux’s praises and the property is increasingly considered the appellation’s finest. I can think of no more convincing way to experience superlative, Premier Cru-equivalent Burgundy at the price of mid-level Oregon Chardonnay. Just one word of advice: buy a few extra bottles for the cellar and DO NOT share with casual friends—this one is only for the insiders!
[NOTE: This wine is only available as a pre-offer and will be arriving at our warehouse in two weeks.]
Despite the stratospheric quality of his wines, Domaine du Clos des Rocs farmer-winemaker-owner Olivier Giroux does not have a penchant for delegation and hired help, like many of his more well-heeled neighbors in Burgundy. He says, “It is just me here—I’m a peasant. I tend the vineyards. I make the wine. I take care of the marketing.” Olivier’s work ethic and dogged self-reliance produce single-vineyard wines of stunning purity and character while the absence of payroll or subcontracting at his small property means prices remain refreshingly low. Across the board, Clos des Rocs is bottling wines that are full of soil character and recall Burgundy’s golden era.
Olivier Giroux was born, and developed an early interest in wine, in southern Burgundy’s Mâconnais region. Following university-level wine education and a decade spent honing his skills with large producers in the Rhône Valley, Olivier longed to return home to realize his dream of bottling white Burgundy. He believed the soft, rolling hills of his youth still remained more focused on soil and farming versus what he perceived as the Rhône’s preoccupation with technology and stylistic cellar decisions. Olivier’s instincts led him to one of the most obscure villages in all of Burgundy. The entire village appellation of Pouilly-Loché is a microscopic 32 hectares, and even though it has been recognized by the French government since 1940 and is a highly regarded growing zone, I don’t recall ever having seen a single bottle of wine labeled as Pouilly-Loché on a list or shelf in America. In short, this village—and Olivier’s property—is located well off Burgundy’s beaten path.
Fortunately for all of us, the obscurity of the Pouilly-Loché appellation meant that with his purchase of Domaine du Clos des Rocs in the mid-2000s, Olivier acquired an impressively diverse six-hectare collection of gorgeous, limestone-rich old-vine Chardonnay parcels for the price of what even a few rows in one of Burgundy’s more prestigious vineyards might cost. Olivier immediately set to transition all farming on the property to organics while renovating the cellar to prioritize cleanliness and efficiency. With the US debut of his wines four years ago, it became immediately clear Clos des Rocs deserved a place in the top tier of estates in southern Burgundy. These are nuanced and classically styled wines that perfectly articulate the region’s unique and inimitable character.
Olivier’s “Clos des Rocs Monopole” hails from a walled, 70-year-old single vineyard that sits just next to his cellar (a monopole is a sole ownership, so this choice site is his alone). This ancient, east-facing site is composed of limestone pebbles and rich clay, making it a dream terroir for white Burgundy. If you love Premier Cru Puligny- and Chassagne-Montrachet from the best houses, then today’s 2017 will come as a completely convincing and compromise-free—but refreshingly fair priced—alternative. Plush yellow apple and citrus aromas wrap around a dense, tightly wound core of limestone terroir...and that’s just the first act! With a little time and oxygen, the white truffles, delicate crème caramel notes, and ethereal florals grow more prominent on the nose. It’s a symphony of gorgeous aromatics and soil-driven minerality, all with a texture, depth, and palpable luxury which normally commands a three-figure price tag. This bottle is singing today, but it will improve for another 3-6 years before enjoying a long plateau of peak drinking well into 2030. If you can’t resist pulling the cork soon, please decant for one hour before serving in large Burgundy stems at 50-55 degrees. It’s a classic, extremely classy, and decidedly cerebral wine so don’t get too crazy with the cuisine. I enjoyed my first of two bottles in the last week alongside a roast chicken with herb spaetzle, and the second bottle was absolutely devastating with crab-stuffed Morel mushrooms from the Mendocino coast! Whatever you do, prepare a menu that matches this wine’s grandeur and detail—I have a strong hunch this wine will become a favorite! Cheers.
