We often talk about filming our SommSelect tasting sessions and using the footage in offers: Some of the discussions, and the authentic reactions to wines in the moment, would be worth sharing. Take today’s classic red Burgundy from Confuron-Cotetidot: We’ve offered previous vintages of this wine, so we knew what to expect, yet still it surprised and kind of amazed everyone. “Man, does this wine deliver!” was Ian Cauble’s reaction, to which he added, “this is the one I want to take home and drink tonight.”
If we had video of that, especially given some of the other big-ticket wines on the table, it would be powerful—the big smile and the genuine admiration for what this wine’s all about spoke volumes. When you visit historic wine regions like Burgundy, and see old-school
vignerons in action—pruning their vines, plowing with a horse, whatever—this is the kind of wine you imagine them drinking at the end of the day. “Passetougrain” (sometimes spelled “Passe-Tout-Grain”) is a traditional red wine style in Burgundy, codified into law back in the 1930s, but not many producers continue to make it—especially not in Confuron-Cotetidot’s home village of Vosne-Romanée, home of some of the most expensive reds on earth. The name effectively translates as “throw it all together,” and is applied to wines that combine Burgundy’s two red grapes, Pinot Noir and Gamay. It’s the kind of aromatic, brambly, slightly rustic style of red many experts associate with “traditional” winemaking in Burgundy, and there’s no more tradition-minded producer in the region than Confuron-Cotetidot. Theirs are some of the most soulful, longest-lived reds in the region, and this Passetoutgrain is the quintessential example of a classic field blend—and it’s grown in Vosne-Romanée, no less! Two-thirds Pinot Noir, one-third Gamay, 100% delicious; there isn’t a lot available, so act fast!
As much time as we spend reminding everyone that Beaujolais, and Gamay, are part of Burgundy, they’re still mostly regarded as separate entities. But in fact, as you move south in Burgundy—and especially as the Mâconnais gives way to Beaujolais—Pinot Noir begins to cede ground to Gamay. But it’s not like there’s a strict dividing line: traditionally, the two grapes were intermingled in Burgundy’s vineyards, even as far “north” as the Côte de Nuits, where today’s wine hails from. It’s always tempting to describe Passetoutgrain as a stylistic melding of Burgundy and Cru Beaujolais, but let’s get real: It’s red Burgundy, period!
Gamay, which is literally the spawn of Pinot Noir, has always been the lesser-regarded grape, even though it is easier to grow (and therefore tempting for many to plant). Passetoutgrain’s very existence as a wine style speaks to the fact that vineyards in Burgundy were often “co-planted” to many different varieties. Back in the days when Burgundy was a colder climate than it is now, Passetoutgrain served a valuable purpose as a wine to consume young, while the more austere Pinot Noir wines came together in barrel. And I’ve got to say, there’s a lot to like in this blend: The perfume of the Pinot Noir remains at the fore, but is supported by the rounder, softer fruit component of the Gamay. The grapes are related, after all—it makes sense that they complement one another.
Confuron-Cotetidot is a family-run operation, based in Vosne and specializing in vine propagation and selection massale (using one’s own vine cuttings to propagate new plants, instead of scions from a nursery). Parents Jacky and Bernadette work the vines, and brothers Yves and Jack operate the estate and the cellar, respectively. They have holdings in sites from village level to Grand Cru, and they even have a clone of Pinot Noir in their name: “Pinot Confuron.” Vines are an average of 65 years or older, hand-harvested and cared for tirelessly to produce low yields. Farming has always been done organically, without the use of synthetic pesticides or herbicides, and wines are unfiltered and unfined. They apply 100% whole cluster fermentation, followed by a 2- to 3-week maceration and up to 2 years in the barrel—the amount of new oak dependent on the appellation. Their upper-tier Burgundies, many of which we’ve offered here, are built for long aging. The Passetoutgrain is what you drink while you wait!
Today’s 2017 continues the Confuron family’s winning streak with this bottling: It leads with a terrific underbrush-y note complementing ripe red fruits on the nose, with the dark-berried wild fruit of the Gamay injecting its two cents. In the glass, it is a reflective dark ruby with magenta and pink highlights at the rim, and each time you return to the glass you get different hints of its component parts: bing cherry, wild strawberry, baking spices, and forest floor (Pinot) one moment, followed by purple plums, iodine, and violet (Gamay) the next. Texturally it is medium-bodied, with great freshness and mineral twang that owes at least in part to that whole-cluster fermentation. This is a wine to enjoy now and over the next 3-4 years in Burgundy stems at a cool 55-60 degrees (which will highlight its bright aromatic fruit), yet it has enough backbone to pair with meats (and fish) off the grill this summer. I especially like the idea of several well-chilled bottles of this alongside freshly caught salmon off the grill (the more smoke and char, the better). As I sip this bottle I can’t help but recall the killer “salmon bake” I enjoyed at “Oregon Pinot Camp” many years ago, at which large salmon fillets were speared on alder wood stakes and roasted over an open fire pit. The attached recipe will get you close, and will make an awesome partner for the wine. Cheers!
