With the assistance of importer Eric Danch, let’s take a closer look at the history swirling about this Kékfrankos marvel:

During the 13th and 14th centuries, the most influential settlers in the wine trade were the German-speaking Swabians. They were known as “Ponzichter” (literally, “Bean Farmers”) because they planted beans under the grape canopy in between rows.  Since beans weren’t taxed, this enabled them to feed themselves while waiting for finished wine. Whether they knew it or not, these legumes were also important in replacing and producing nitrogen for soil health.   Coupled with the influence of Lake Fertő (aka Lake Neusiedl), they also enjoyed ample protection from extreme weather.   

The winegrowing families of Sopron also farmed distinct single vineyard plots over generations and generations. They know how to react to difficult vintages, how best to farm each special place, when to pick, and so on. During the quantity-over-quality era of Communism, grapes were grown, harvested, and produced at an industrial level with no respect for tradition or terroir. Just imagine if all Burgundy wine was produced under a massive cooperative for 40 years—I shudder at the thought. 

Enter Peter Wetzer, who recognized that Sopron’s sense of identity and authenticity has been lost. Thus, he began a micro-winery with the sole purpose to “to get it back” and “continue the past.” Peter is a 5th-generation winemaker in his family, and the four that came before him also lived in what he currently calls his own home: a small dwelling/winery with an old cellar/basement. In 2007, after a long hunt for healthy soils that had avoided industrial farming, he purchased a mere 2.5 hectares spread over five different terroirs. His discoveries were alive with flora and fauna, healthy cover crops, and low disease exposure. To preserve this completely natural state, all of his farming is carried by hand with zero tilling.

The “Silberberg” (silver mountain) is a special single vineyard for a variety of reasons. Heavy with schist and quartz, it’s only a couple of wine-growing hills away from Lake Fertő, making it his coolest site. And even though it’s often the very last pick of the year, it paradoxically yields the least amount of sugar. From these 50-year-old, low-yielding vines, each cluster is hand-harvested and then fermented, 15% whole cluster, in open vats for roughly three weeks. It is then barreled down in Hungarian oak for 18 months without any disturbance. Bottling occurs without filtration. 

This is a Kékfrankos, also known as Blaufränkisch in neighboring Austria, that is closer to Pinot Noir in terms of lift, texture, tannins, and weight, but with the spice and earth of Central Europe. It has all the qualities of cool-climate red in terms of low alcohol (12.5%) and acidity, but a longer “hang time” on the vines has lent some beautiful ripe qualities in the finished product. It pours a healthy ruby color in the glass with flashes of magenta, but before we jump into the tasting notes I first want to stress just how important it is to serve this wine properly. Admittedly, we break our own serving rules from time to time because a delicious wine can be near-impossible to keep your hands away from, but this ‘18 “Silberberg” Kékfrankos deserves to be treated like royalty.

So, decant for 30-45 minutes and then serve in large Burgundy stems while hovering around cellar temperature (~60 degrees). If you do so, you’ll discover a breathtaking red that exudes invigorating brambleberry, Damson plum, boysenberry, red cherry, red plum skin, flower stem, damp soil, rose petal, licorice, underbrush, black pepper, crushed stone, and wild herbs. The palate is medium-bodied with bright-toned fruit that melds into a vivid blend of minerals and mouth-watering savor. It just has that elite Burgundian flair to it, but never once loses its wild Hungarian identity—seriously, you have to check out this wine! Enjoy now and over the next five years, preferably with a classic dish like Pörkölt.