Domaine Sérol “Oudan” Gamay Saint-Romain
Other, France 2017 (750mL)
Regular price$30.00
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Domaine Sérol “Oudan” Gamay Saint-Romain
What does three-Michelin-star La Maison Troisgros—considered one of the meccas of the culinary world—and a highly obscure Gamay clone have in common? The answer is Domaine Sérol in Côte Roannaise and the story is fascinating.
As we understand it, luminary Jancis Robinson was dining at Troisgros years ago and the sommelier poured her the house red. One taste and she felt compelled to learn more. After speaking with head chef Michel Troisgrois, she discovered that it was from Domaine Sérol and that the restaurant had been working with their Gamay for decades. But not just any Gamay: Sérol, and the entire appellation of Côte Roannaise, is only permitted to grow an heirloom clone called Gamay Saint-Romain. These vines produce delicious, later-ripening clusters that achieve more aromatics, ripeness, and overall pleasurability. It’s quickly gaining status in insider circles, too, so we suggest you take heed of Sérol—this centuries-old property is the singular reason Côte Roannaise has an international presence today! And while Roannaise is technically located in the southeast extremes of the Loire Valley, it’s geographically and stylistically closer to Burgundy and Northern Rhône. I especially want to emphasize the stylistic comparisons of today’s 2017 Oudan: Coming from a single vineyard, farmed organically & biodynamically, and aged in massive wooden tanks, this is a stupendous red that tastes like a fusion of Cru Beaujolais, Saint-Joseph, and Burgundy. It’s guaranteed to make you feel alive in these restless times.
Just an hour west of Burgundy’s southern reaches, Côte Roannaise was granted appellation status in 1994 thanks in large part to the concerted efforts of Domaine Sérol. Perched between 350-450 meters in elevation on a vein of fine granite, akin to the terroir of Cru Beaujolais, Roannaise offers a microclimate similar to that of Alsace along the Vosges Mountains. The overwhelming majority of plantings here are Gamay Saint-Romain.
Now with decades of experience, fifth-generation Stéphane currently oversees his family estate and has multiplied its vineyard holdings while also farming organically and biodynamically (currently transition). The Sérols strive for low yields and high quality in the vineyards and pay special attention to the nuances of each site.
And today’s vineyard source for “Oudan” perhaps holds the most sentiment for Stéphane: This hillside plot—nearly 1500 feet in altitude, the extreme limit of the appellation—is the first vineyard planted by himself about 25 years ago. The vines here are buried in granitic soils, enjoy a southern exposure, and are farmed organically.
Stéphane partially de-stems and a 60% whole-cluster fermentation occurs with only airborne, indigenous yeasts in 60-hectoliter tronconic wooden vats. Aging, too, is carried out in these massive wooden beasts for approximately one year. Following, the wine is given an extremely delicate filtration and, just as they did nearly 50 years ago, all bottling takes place by them at the domaine.
We know you’re well-trained on Gamay, but you’ve never had a Gamay Saint-Romain! Imagine, if you can, that Beaujolais had a long lost “eleventh Cru” (credit to Richard Kelley MW) that absconded up to the Massif Central and had a tryst with Northern Rhône Syrah. That’s essentially Sérol’s take on Gamay Saint-Romain, and it’s impossible to pry your hands away from it. No need to decant this one: Simply pull the cork and serve around 60 degrees, or right at cellar temperature, in Burgundy stems. The moment this 2017 “Oudan” Gamay Saint-Romain hits your glass, the purest of notes are released: sweet black cherry, muddled cranberry, black raspberry, huckleberry, spiced plums, forest floor, and finely crushed granite. But there’s also a dynamic blend of delicate herbs, pepper, and cacao that seem to mimic the greats of Saint-Joseph or Crozes-Hermitage. Overall, this is a three-in-one master class on energy, finesse, and textural expression that enlivens the palate with each and every sip. The importer says it’s “a Gamay for Syrah lovers” but we say it’s a Gamay for lovers of wine, period!
