When it comes to a definitive, clear-cut expression of how wine should taste from a classic region, there are few labels I wholeheartedly trust year-in and year-out. Be it Grüner or Riesling, Rudi Pichler was one of my go-to producers leading up to the blind-tasting portion of my Master Sommelier exam. Today, I buy Pichler for another reason: sheer pleasure. I liken their extraordinary Grüner Veltliners to the annual, non-vintage releases of a renowned Champagne House—although they produce more premium labels, this is the bottle that defines their style and image. As such, Pichler’s classic “Federspiel” Grüner is “the most important Rudi Pichler wine,” and one that illustrates the focus of their entire lineup: textured minerality, piquant layers, and middle-of-the-pasture freshness. Sure, it's an entry-level wine, but that doesn’t prevent it from entering the 99th percentile of elite white wine under $30.