Since the mid-2000s, this tiny estate has been run by Antoine Van Remoortere, who took over for his father, Joseph. Before “returning home” to Menetou-Salon to work with Joseph (who has since retired), Antoine traveled as far afield as South Africa to cut his winemaking teeth; he worked for a time with Languedoc up-and-comer Julien Zernot at Pas de L’Escalette, and upon landing back home, his first order of business was to convert four hectares of family vineyards to organic farming. (Notably, Zernot did a lengthy stint at Menetou-Salon’s acclaimed Domaine Henry Pellé, which is just a mile or so down the road from the Remoortere farm).

As Loire Valley wine enthusiasts know, Menetou-Salon is effectively a western extension of the Sancerre growing zone, with soils rich in Kimmeridgian limestone; Remoortere is just outside the town of Morogues, which anchors the eastern end of the Menetou-Salon AOC, not far from its boundary with Sancerre. This beautifully pure Sauvignon Blanc was fermented on native yeasts in tank and saw no oak during its brief élévage (aging), allowing its organically farmed fruit to shine bright as a crystal.

The other standout feature of today’s 2018 is its opulent texture—if you were expecting lean and racy, think again, because this is a Sauvignon with some real mid-palate impact. In the glass, it’s a glistening pale straw color with slight hints of silver and green, with the inimitable aromatic profile of classic Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc: white grapefruit, peach, lemon balm, green herbs, a hint of white pepper, crushed chalk, and wet stones. The medium-bodied palate shows appealing fruit concentration and an iron-fisted mineral grip, everything lifted by a big wave of refreshing acidity. It’s a textbook expression of Loire Sauvignon that’s a lip-smacking pleasure to drink now but will continue to improve over the next 3-5 years, so you may consider finding room for a case—the versatility and value here are pretty tough to beat, whether you’re sipping it as an apéritif or pairing it with bright, lemony Spring salads or seafoods. Serve it at 45-50 degrees in all-purpose white wine stems and, frankly, serve it with just about anything—it’s probably going to work beautifully. Deeply mineral, resoundingly fresh white wines tend to do that. Enjoy!