Something remarkable has happened in the centuries-old cellar of the Coulon family in the last year. In remarkably short order, this family has elevated their wines from “very good” to positively exceptional. Today’s wine was a revelation during my most recent tour of Champagne, and for months, I’ve been eagerly awaiting its arrival in the US.
Unfortunately, it’s just a matter of time before the mind-boggling quality improvement at Coulon is discovered by the broader wine community—when word gets out, I’m confident prices will spike and inventories will plummet. The wines are just too good. So, today’s offer is exciting. I really feel like we’re getting in under the wire! This recent disgorgement of “L'Hommée” (not to be confused with the family’s older release, “Réserve de L'Hommée”) is culled from old-bordering-ancient Premier Cru vineyards—one of which was planted in 1924. It’s a luxuriously rich, layered, deeply thought-provoking Champagne that is built as much for robust cuisine as it is for hours of solitary contemplation. I can’t think of anything else in this price range that compares. We’ve purchased all that was available in the US and I strongly encourage you to grab some!
Throughout my career, Coulon has always been respected for presiding over a treasure trove of ancient vines, an impressive eight-generation family history in the Premier Cru village of Vrigny, and an honorably patient and traditional approach in the cellar. Everything here is done right. Still, I’ll admit I never developed a taste for the wines. For my palate, there was always too much dosage and sweetness on the finish, too many “bells and whistles” and not enough minerality. I’m writing today to announce that things have changed! With a bit of guidance, the Coulons have tweaked the house style to focus on mineral expression and purity by allowing their old vines to shine; adapting to each grape variety in the winery; and lowering their dosage. Roger Coulon is also part of Trait d’Union—a six-member collective pledging to farm sustainably and craft terroir-expressive wines. The other five members? Egly-Ouriet, Larmandier-Bernier, Selosse, Prevost, and Jacquesson—some of the absolute greatest names in grower Champagne. With these “teammates,” it’s no wonder I’m head over heels for Roger Coulon!
Since establishing themselves in 1806, the Coulon family has ever-so-gradually increased their vine holdings to roughly 25 total acres—that’s the equivalent of adding an acre every 8-9 years! It’s because of this patience and discernment that they are able to delicately farm their old vines. L’Hommée” is a blend of the 2013 (33%) and 2012 vintages (67%) with equal parts of Meunier, Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay from two Champagne Premier Crus, “Vrigny” and “Pargny.” In the winery, the Meunier and Pinot Noir ferment (malolactic included) and age in stainless steel tanks, but Eric and Isabelle Coulon have a different plan for their Chardonnay: neutral barrique fermentation, on indigenous yeasts, before blending in the other juice. Upon bottling under cap, the Coulons demand that it ages five years before even thinking about disgorgement. It is topped of with an extremely light dosage, allowing old-vine fruit and mineral expression to explode out of the glass!
There is no better re-introduction to Coulon’s lineup than “L'Hommée”—one sip will make you a believer. Yes, this is assuredly a rich and luxurious bottle of Champagne, but the nose exudes ballroom elegance with soft notes of creamed yellow and red apples, Bosc pear, grilled peaches, honeysuckle, brioche, Rainier cherries, and white plums. But it’s much more than opulent fruit: L'Hommée is a layered wine that doesn’t hide behind its ripeness—you’ll find fresh herbs, crushed rocks, fresh white flowers, and citrus blossoms too. It’s indelibly soft and supple, all while approaching full-bodied with its wonderfully creamy mouthfeel. It never once hints at saturation or candy-sweet; it is graceful and opulent in one, something you can expect when you’re dealing with old vines, partial barrel fermentation, and five years of aging on lees. It’s a layered, mouthwateringly ripe Premier Cru Champagne that has no problem existing alongside the luxury labels in nearby Reims and Epernay. With its new style and label, “L'Hommée” deserves a red carpet rollout and a hedonistic dish to boot: Start with fresh oysters and enjoy your last glass (or open another bottle!) with veal in a rich cream sauce. Sound sumptuous? Good, because that’s exactly what it is—at an incredibly modest price.
