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Retro Cellars, “Elevation” Old Vine Petite Sirah

Napa Valley, United States 2012 (750mL)
$39.00
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Fruit
Earth
Body
Tannin
Acid
Alcohol

Retro Cellars, “Elevation” Old Vine Petite Sirah

Wines from the Petite Sirah grape are usually about as far from “petite” as it gets: This is a dark-hued variety known primarily for inky, powerhouse styles, but as Mike and Kara Dunn of Retro Cellars know very well, there’s more to the story. Much like some of the Carignan-driven reds of Priorat show that variety to be far more than a “workhorse,” the Dunns have proved that Petite Sirah can shine on center stage just fine.
Extremely old vines, volcanic soils, and high elevations help with that, as does the example set by Mike’s father, Randy Dunn, who, in addition to his iconic Howell Mountain Cabernets, has crafted some of the most refined, age-worthy Petite Sirahs ever made. We’ve offered several stunning back vintages of Dunn’s Petite Sirahs over the years, so when Mike and Kara’s Retro label came our way—with a little bottle age of its own to boot—we knew we were getting something special. Today’s 2012 is called “Elevation” because its source vineyards sit way up on Howell Mountain, but it’s an elevated expression of Petite Sirah for another reason: the fruit comes from the famed “Park Muscatine” vineyard, a Napa Valley heritage vineyard that dates to the 1890s, and “Los Abuelos,” an estate vineyard planted by Mike using budwood from Park Muscatine. The result is a fascinating amalgam of dark-fruited power and floral, feminine grace. Serious critical acclaim followed, so I was surprised we managed to get any to offer—maybe it’s the conventional wisdom on Petite Sirah, which this wine defies in the most delicious (and affordable) way. One sip and you’ll see what I mean!
Known as Durif in France (where it isn’t really grown anymore), Petite Sirah was introduced to the wider world in the late-1800s and has since been identified as a cross between Peloursin and Syrah. Like some of the other hardy vines of the early California wine scene—including Zinfandel and Carignan, both of which were also grown in the Park Muscatine vineyard—Petite Sirah/Durif was used more as a fortifying, color-enhancing blending variety. But as producers in California and Australia have shown, there’s not only immense, dark-fruited pleasure to be derived from the grape: there’s also lots of aromatic nuance and profound soil character.

Mike Dunn notes that the old-vine plots of Durif/Petite Sirah he’s working with also includes some Peloursin in the mix, but the name “Elevation” really tells the story of this wine: the wide diurnal temperature shifts on Howell Mountain help preserve acidity in grapes that are naturally inclined toward super-concentration. You’d think a wine like this, which clocks in at a modest 13.4% alcohol, would be physically impossible, given that it’s Napa Valley Petite Sirah we’re talking about. But it is, in fact, very buoyant and aromatic, vaguely reminiscent of Northern Rhône Syrah in tone. There’s plenty of black and blue fruit concentration, but none of the sweet, syrupy qualities some Petite Sirahs have. It’s muscular but graceful—like an NFL lineman competing on “Dancing with the Stars,” it amazes you with how light on its feet it is.  

In the end, the Retro 2012 came in at 75% Petite Sirah, supported by 15% Syrah and 10% Zinfandel, fermented on native yeasts, and aged in 100% new French oak for 30 months. Decant this mind-blowing red about 60 minutes before serving in large Bordeaux stems at 60 degrees, and let its heady perfume fill the air around you. It is a characteristically opaque, purple-black color moving to magenta at the rim, with a complex array of dark woodland berry and floral notes: there’s boysenberry, blueberry, black raspberry, violets, and purple sage along with more savory notes of cacao, warm spice, and dusty earth. It is medium-plus in body (rather atypical for this variety), with a refreshing level of acidity one can only attribute to high altitude and old vines. And although it drinks well now, it will continue to evolve in a positive direction over the next 5-7 years at a minimum. It’s really a revelatory Californian wine, ready for pairing with some braised short ribs or barbecue. Enjoy!
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Country
United States
Region
Napa Valley
Sub-Region
United StatesHowell Mountain
Soil
Volcanic
Farming
Sustainable
Blend
Petite Sirah 75%, Syrah 15%, Zinfandel 10%
Alcohol
13.4
OAK
100% New French
TEMP.
60-65
Glassware
Bordeaux Stems
Drinking
Now-2030
Decanting
30 Minutes
Pairing
Baby Back Ribs

United States

Washington

Columbia Valley

Like many Washington wines, the “Columbia Valley” indication only tells part of the story: Columbia Valley covers a huge swath of Central
Washington, within which are a wide array of smaller AVAs (appellations).

Oregon

Willamette Valley

Oregon’s Willamette Valley has become an elite winegrowing zone in record time. Pioneering vintner David Lett, of The Eyrie Vineyard, planted the first Pinot Noir in the region in 1965, soon to be followed by a cadre of forward-thinking growers who (correctly) saw their wines as America’s answer to French
Burgundies. Today, the Willamette
Valley is indeed compared favorably to Burgundy, Pinot Noir’s spiritual home. And while Pinot Noir accounts for 64% of Oregon’s vineyard plantings, there are cool-climate whites that must not be missed.

California

Santa Barbara

Among the unique features of Santa Barbara County appellations like Ballard Canyon (a sub-zone of the Santa Ynez Valley AVA), is that it has a cool, Pacific-influenced climate juxtaposed with the intense luminosity of a southerly
latitude (the 34th parallel). Ballard Canyon has a more north-south orientation compared to most Santa Barbara AVAs, with soils of sandy
clay/loam and limestone.

California

Paso Robles

Situated at an elevation of 1,600 feet, it is rooted in soils of sandy loam and falls within the Highlands District of the Paso Robles AVA.

New York

North Fork

Wine growers and producers on Long Island’s North Fork have traditionally compared their terroir to that of Bordeaux and have focused on French varieties such as Cabernet Franc and Merlot.

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