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Högl, Riesling Federspiel “J&G”

Wachau, Austria 2018 (750mL)
$26.00
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Fruit
Earth
Body
Tannin
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Alcohol

Högl, Riesling Federspiel “J&G”

When I see a tall, slender bottle like this one—especially when it says “Wachau” on the label—I know instinctively what to expect: an electrifying white wine of outstanding purity, a real sense of place, a deep mineral presence, and an unbelievably reasonable price.
And what do you know—Josef Högl and family over-delivered on that promise. Whether it’s a detailed dry Riesling like today’s 2018 or a spicy Grüner Veltliner, Högl is a stalwart of the western Wachau, where temperatures are a little cooler and the wines glitter like the mica and quartz suffusing the vineyard soils. I’d put today’s “J&G” Riesling Federspiel in the all-important “pantry staple” (or now, shelter-in-place staple) category, as its versatility with food and pound-for-pound excellence is tough, if not impossible, to beat. Bone-dry and penetratingly aromatic in its inimitably Riesling way, this is vinous comfort food for me. It is never the wrong choice, and one of the easiest-drinking whites one could ask for, so be sure to grab enough for repeat performances!
Josef Högl and his son, Georg—the “J&G” of the label—are headquartered at the western end of the Wachau DAC, in the area known as the Spitzer Graben, but their vineyard holdings extend to other parts of the region. Today’s wine is sourced from sandy, silty sites in the towns of Weissenkirchen, Dürnstein, and Loiben, in the heart of the appellation, but its personality is that of wines from Spitz: full of nerve, minerality, and cool-climate florals. The “J&G” wines are effectively ‘entry-level’ bottlings for the Högls (there’s also a stellar Grüner Veltliner, which we’ve offered), but they’re hardly skimping on quality here—per Wachau regulations, this wine is classified as a “Federspiel,” which is the middle tier of ripeness in the Wachau’s three-tiered system, translating to potential alcohol of between 11.5% and 12.5%. The wine, aged only in stainless steel and containing a minuscule 1.2 grams per liter of residual sugar, is a bone-dry, lip-smacking refresher, but there is also real ripeness and substance on the mid-palate. The wine may disappear quickly once opened, but it leaves a lasting memory!

Bottled under screwcap and ready to jump out of the glass once poured, the 2018 Riesling Federspiel is a glistening straw-gold in the glass moving to emerald green at the rim, with heady Riesling aromas of white peach, lime blossoms, white flowers, wet stones, and a kiss of ‘petrol.” It is medium-bodied and racy, with a persistent, citrusy finish—in short, a spot-on expression of the Riesling grape from one of its greatest terroirs, for just $26. In some ways, I feel like that’s all I needed to say about it: Enjoy this over the next few years in all-purpose white wine stems at 45 degrees, but especially right now as the weather starts to warm and everything begins to bloom. This wine captures the moment perfectly and will shine with all the tender greens and other Springtime produce we’re about to start getting from our local CSAs. Check out the attached recipe and be sure to have some of the J&G available for Thai and Chinese takeout, too. Enjoy!
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Country
Austria
Region
Wachau
Sub-Region
AustriaSpitz
Soil
Loess & Gneiss
Farming
Sustainable
Blend
Riesling 100%
Alcohol
12.5
OAK
None
TEMP.
45-50
Glassware
All-Purpose Whites
Drinking
Now-2022
Decanting
Optional
Pairing
Asparagus Soup

Austria

Northeastern Austria

Weinviertel

Considered by most to be the oldest growing zone in Austria, Weinviertel is also, geographically, the largest in the country and covers the vast, northeastern expanse of Lower Austria, stretching from the western border of Slovakia, following the Danube inland and veering up to the southern border of Czechia. Its name, which translates to “wine quarter,” reflects the region’s rich, ancient wine heritage and, according to the Weinviertel DAC website, there are “7,000 years of artifacts to prove it.”

Northeastern Austria

Wachau

Austria’s Wachau appellation is the country’s most acclaimed region. About an hour northwest of Vienna along the Danube River, the vista of the steep, terraced vineyards of the Wachau creates a magnificent landscape akin to a verdant, ancient amphitheater—it is a UNESCO World Heritage site, after all. With rich and unique soils here of löess and gneiss, which lend vivid minerality to the wine.

Eastern Austria

Burgenland

The Burgenland appellation, running along Austria’s border with Hungary southeast of Vienna, has a diverse topography and a mix of soils, with more primary rock and slate at higher locations and dense loams in the rolling hills that extend toward the Pannonian plain.

Southeastern Austria

Steiermark

The region of Styria (Steiermark) is in southeastern Austria which sits near the border with Slovenia. This area is studded with long-extinct volcanoes whose deposits are a key component of the local soils and the vineyards benefit from a classic Austrian push-pull of cool Alpine air and warmer “Pannonian” currents from the east.

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