If you're an admirer of Champagne Krug, then it stands to reason that Eric Rodez must also hold a spot in that elite rank: Previously the cellarmaster at this legendary estate, Rodez has since gone on to bottle some of the most fascinating, dynamic, and sought-after grower Champagnes.
This, of course, won’t be groundbreaking news to those who’ve closely followed the exploding grower Champagne movement. Eric Rodez reigns supreme in this realm and through natural farming, biodiversity, and a pure, terroir-expressive style, he has certainly earned his stripes—so much so, I consider it a moral offense to willingly neglect his creations. Everyone, however, gets a pass when it comes to his rarely seen, highly allocated single-parcel lineup: Only a few vintages have been released and there’s never any significant exposure because every bottle is seemingly accounted for the moment it leaves Eric’s cellar door. Accordingly, these thrilling micro-batch projects are infuriatingly hard to track down, but today we’ve managed to wrangle a 60-bottle (now 59, apologies) allocation of “Les Beurys.” Coming from the stuff-of-legend 2012 vintage, this barrel-aged Holy Grail from Grand Cru Ambonnay is instantly one of life’s great pleasures. The experience will last a lifetime, the chance to obtain a bottle will not—after these five cases disappear, that’s it. Free shipping on two bottles.
The self-proclaimed “Auteur de Champagne” is precisely that, an auteur; like a Scorcese of the vines, Eric is involved in every aspect of growing and in the production of his fine Champagne. He comes by this passion honestly and organically. Records reflect that the Rodez family has been producing Champagne from this land since 1757. Over time, parcels were added to their holdings, but the business has stayed a family affair with Eric’s son, Mickael, next in line.
Eric didn’t just slide into the family business. As mentioned, he worked as an oenologist at Krug where he gained a vast appreciation for the art of blending. He also spent time in Alsace in the mid-1980s where he garnered knowledge of natural viticulture from biodynamic legend Jean-Michel Deiss. In a Decanter article, Rodez reflects on his invaluable experience with Deiss: “He does not make wines—he makes cathedrals. It was he who helped me to realize that the soil is everything.”
Eric brought these invaluable lessons back to the family business: He first started farming organically, then pushed the envelope even further with biodynamics and biodiversity. In fact, Eric was awarded the HEV (high environmental value) certificate, making Rodez Champagne the first agricultural company to be recognized for its respect not just for organic and biodynamic farming, but for efforts towards biodiversity as well.
Eric says “the role of the winemaker is limited to try and do everything possible to respect and preserve the integrity of the level of expression of the vintage. Winemaking in small oak barrels, no malolactic fermentation, no cold stabilization, no filtering but a lot of passion…” And while his entire range is a snapshot of perfection, it’s his single-vineyard series that really have opened the eyes of connoisseurs. Today’s “Les Beurys” is a tiny, naturally farmed parcel amongst a sea of Grand Cru royalty in Ambonnay. It was vinified slowly and coolly in barrels, then transferred into bottle in early 2012 where it spent nearly six years on lees. Following disgorgement, a light dosage (2-3 g/l) was added and the finished Champagne was allowed to rest another year before release.
While it’s true that every person has a distinct palate, there’s one unarguable quality to Eric Rodez’s 2012 “Les Beurys”: It delivers a profound drinking experience. Keep it around 55 degrees in Burgundy stems and each sip will stun your palate. A thundering mass of crushed minerals and savory Pinot Noir fruit rattle your tastebuds and leave a long-lasting imprint. My first taste lingered for well over 60 seconds and provided an evolving mosaic of flavor: a colorful range of red and yellow apples, red plum skin, white peach, dried Rainier cherries, honeysuckle, sun-dried herbs, underbrush, loose black tea, and pulverized chalk. It is a serious “meditation” wine that wants to avoid bright lights and a loud environment. Savor it slowly, with those who appreciate the raw beauty of Champagne, and watch as it reveals a vivifying (and every synonym you can imagine—electrifying, energizing, invigorating, etc.) core of delicate orchard fruit and resoundingly powerful minerality. It’ll leave you throwing out exclamations over and over, long after the resonating last drop—I’m still thinking about my bottle from two weeks ago. To be frank, the only reason I’m refraining from buying another one of these Grand Cru rarities is because we have that few to offer. Enjoy!
