One of the most popular requests from last year was for a return of Easkoot’s “Suacci Vineyard'' Pinot Noir, but unfortunately, there was nothing we could do. This tiny project topped out at 195 cases in 2014 and our bite-sized allocation represented the very last drop, so we made sure to be first in line for their 2015s.
When that day finally came, we were in for a shocking surprise: We didn’t hesitate to call Easkoot a small-batch wine to begin with, but their 2015 takes it to a new extreme with only
95 cases! It’s not every day you can find a Pinot Noir of this extraordinarily high caliber and minuscule production for a world-best price, but if/when that day comes, you best be ready for it. With five years of age, Easkoot’s seductively aromatic and richly textured 2015 demands Burgundy to reevaluate their price-to-quality model. And that’s long before considering the sustainable farming, hands-off winemaking, and five years of total aging packed inside of today’s bottle. So, hoard all you can and enjoy each one over the course of an evening to experience the profound characteristics of classy, complex, cool-climate Pinot at its highest level. As many of you learned last year, this is your only shot at Easkoot.
Captain Alfred Derby Easkoot. What a name, what a pioneer. It was this man who was christened as Marin County’s first land surveyor in the 1800s, and today’s eponymous label is a deferential nod. Easkoot Cellars’ inaugural vintage came in 2009 and over the past decade, the sole focus has been on seeking out prime vineyards along the coast and crafting small-batch, parcel-designated wines.
“Suacci Vineyard” is a tiny, hidden-away coastal site planted entirely to Pinot Noir. But even if you are lucky enough to stumble across this gem of a site, you may not immediately know what makes it special. All you need to do is look down: Its ace in the hole is “Goldridge,” about as valuable as gold itself in the world of California Pinot Noir. This several-million-year-old, mineral-rich soil yields powerfully concentrated fruit that is worshipped as much as Mosel’s slate, Chablis’ limestone, and Bordeaux’ gravelly terroir.
The 6.5-acre Suacci Vineyard is nestled deep in Sonoma Coast and is just a hair over 10 miles to the ocean. Morning fog, strong sun exposure, large diurnal shifts, and famous Goldridge soils mean one thing: tiny berries and powerful flavor. Since this tiny vineyard was originally planted in 2001, not many producers have been able to get their hands on it, so winemaker Matt Duffy extracts all he can from the few rows bestowed to him. After a meticulous harvest, the ripe grapes naturally fermented (30% whole clusters) before a lengthy aging regimen in 25% new oak from French cooper Marcel Cadet.
After decanting for 15-30 minutes, Easkoot’s 2015 high-steps into a Burgundy stem with aromatic style, perfectly illustrating that neither ripeness nor freshness need be sacrificed in a California cool-climate terroir. It unfurls with powerful waves of black cherries, black raspberry liqueur, plums, and a touch of wild strawberry before being quickly followed by underbrush, cola nut, licorice, damp violets, orange zest, wild herbs, and exotic baking spices. The palate is rich, exceedingly refreshing, and all about finesse, which is not dissimilar to the soft-shouldered texture and delicacy that 2015 Chambolle-Musigny brings. Still, there’s an extra gear of polish and “oomph” to this ‘15 versus the ‘14 we offered last year. Which one do I prefer? It’s too close to call, but I’m off to find a spare bottle of the latter so I can do an in-depth analysis. What I can say with absolute confidence is that today’s offer will be treasured by anyone who is partial to intricately crafted, stunningly layered Pinot Noir.