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Cazé-Thibaut, “Naturellement” Extra-Brut

Champagne, France 2016 (750mL)
Regular price$60.00
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Cazé-Thibaut, “Naturellement” Extra-Brut

We count many serious Champagne fanatics among our subscribers, so I’m guessing the name Fabien Cazé and Champagne Cazé-Thibaut will be familiar to some. Drawing on a family history in the Vallée de la Marne that goes back 10 generations, and wholeheartedly embracing the tenets of organic and biodynamic viticulture, Cazé is a major star in the grower Champagne firmament.


He hand-farms just a few hectares of vines in the neighboring villages of Châtillon-Sur-Marne and Vandières, ferments his wines in barrels using native yeasts only, and gives all three Champagne grapes their own cuvée in which to shine. “Naturellement” is a low-dosage expression of Pinot Meunier, which reaches its zenith in the Marne Valley. Despite his relatively recent arrival on the grower Champagne scene, Fabien Cazé became a member of a selective, terroir-focused producers’ association called “Terres et Vins de Champagne,” which counts superstar producers such as Raphaël Bérêche, Aurélien Laherte, and Alexandre Chartogne among its membership. And like all three of those elite contemporaries, Cazé knows that Pinot Meunier is well-equipped for stand-alone stardom: “Naturellement” is compelling, mineral-etched proof. As for the (very reasonable) price, I’m inclined to think it won’t last; Cazé is poised to blow up, which may make offers like this a mere happy memory.


Despite his long family history in Châtillon, Fabien only released “his” first wines in 2013; and, like a lot of young, up-and-coming producers in Champagne, his focus is squarely on the health of his vineyards. This has been perhaps the greatest upshot of the grower Champagne movement—an emphasis on place-specificity and sustainable viticulture. So much of Champagne marketing in the past took its cues from the spirits business, or, for that matter, the fashion industry: luxury “branding” was the objective. The grassroots, ‘guerilla’ appeal of tiny houses like Cazé-Thibault is incredibly appealing to me because the emphasis is on what’s inside the bottle—where it should be!



Fabien draws from six organically and biodynamically farmed parcels for today’s 100% Pinot Meunier bottling, each one harvested separately and by hand. The grapes underwent a slow, native-yeast fermentation in old French oak barrels in Cazé’s cold cellar and the resulting wine aged in bottle for just over two years. As you will see, the wine carries a vintage date and an ‘extra-brut’ designation, having received a minuscule dosage (sugar addition) of just 2.2 grams per liter. This is a wine that simply pulses with energy, a perfect high-wire balancing act of fruit, florals, and crushed-rock minerality.



In the glass, the wine shines a pale straw-gold with slight hints of copper and silver, with an ultra-fine mousse and perfumed aromas of preserved lemon, red delicious apple, red plum skin, wildflower honey, white mushrooms, brioche, crushed chalk, and baking spices. Whereas many Meunier-driven Champagnes have a broader, softer texture, this one is incredibly focused and finely etched, reminding me of some big-name blanc de noirs bottlings costing a lot more. Let’s just say this: Nobody puts Meunier in a corner! Try this electrifying bottle as an apéritif with gougères or keep a bottle or two in the mix for Thanksgiving turkey (hoping that, by then, you’ll be able to share it with others). As always, I advise against serving it too cold (50 degrees in the sweet spot) and prefer all-purpose white wine stems (or larger) over narrow flutes. Champagne lovers, add another young gun to your must-have list!

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France

Bourgogne

Beaujolais

Enjoying the greatest wines of Beaujolais starts, as it usually does, with the lay of the land. In Beaujolais, 10 localities have been given their own AOC (Appellation of Controlled Origin) designation. They are: Saint Amour; Juliénas; Chénas; Moulin-à Vent; Fleurie; Chiroubles; Morgon; Régnié; Côte de Brouilly; and Brouilly.

Southwestern France

Bordeaux

Bordeaux surrounds two rivers, the Dordogne and Garonne, which intersect north of the city of Bordeaux to form the Gironde Estuary, which empties into the Atlantic Ocean. The region is at the 45th parallel (California’s Napa Valley is at the38th), with a mild, Atlantic-influenced climate enabling the maturation of late-ripening varieties.

Central France

Loire Valley

The Loire is France’s longest river (634 miles), originating in the southerly Cévennes Mountains, flowing north towards Paris, then curving westward and emptying into the Atlantic Ocean near Nantes. The Loire and its tributaries cover a huge swath of central France, with most of the wine appellations on an east-west stretch at47 degrees north (the same latitude as Burgundy).

Northeastern France

Alsace

Alsace, in Northeastern France, is one of the most geologically diverse wine regions in the world, with vineyards running from the foothills of theVosges Mountains down to the Rhine River Valley below.

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