This wine’s importer, Oliver McCrum, is right: Campania is producing some of the greatest white wines in Italy right now and boasts an all-star trio of native varieties: Fiano, Falanghina, and Greco. This lively, floral, citrusy white has taken on an almost honeyed depth on the mid-palate after a few years of bottle age—and unlike so many Italian whites of yore prone to rapid oxidation, this one has maintained beautiful freshness. This Fiano’s youthful citrusy notes are just starting to skew a touch more tropical, while the appealing texture remains well-supported by lively acidity and a spicy mineral component. Grown in clay and sand near Monte Taburno, one of the many spent volcanoes in central Campania (“Nembo” means cloud, referring to the elevation of the vineyard). Lip-smacking white for Mediterranean seafood dishes!