Willamette Valley Pinot Noir at its highest level is one of the greatest wine experiences you can have, and when paying a mere $30 for one of these chart-busting values, many deem it the single greatest experience. That’s why we consider terroir purist Brad McLeroy to be crafting some of the most sublime wine in the entire Willamette Valley. His 2018 Ayres “Perspective” is Pinot Noir perfection that single-handedly illustrates why Oregonian wine is in the midst of fanatical worldwide fame. Stick your nose in the glass and tell me that this doesn’t emit some of the most flawless, noble, and soul-stirring aromatics imaginable.
As you can see, we’ve become an enormous advocate of this ‘mom and pop’ winery and firmly believe that vinous magic is swirling about their sustainably farmed vineyards in Willamette’s elite sub-appellation of Ribbon Ridge. Do yourself a favor and get closely acquainted with Ayres because the prices these wines are retailing at are simply illogical. But, we needn’t dwell on that—all that’s required of us is to cherish the insane liquid in the bottle and thank them profusely for a continued world-best value.
Unlike the other sub-appellations of the Willamette Valley, Ribbon Ridge is a distinguished geological formation of uniform soils—a unique seabed uplift from the northwest peak of the Chehalem Mountains. It’s not the coolest place in the Willamette, nor is it the warmest, but hangs it hat on being one of the driest, with a long consistent growing season less susceptible to temperature spikes and uneven ripening. And with Pinot Noir, the less climatic twists and turns, the better.
After several years making wine under the brilliant wing of Veronique Drouhin (Domaine Drouhin) in the heart of the Dundee Hills, Brad McLeroy started out with just a few acres and has since built it to 20, mostly east-facing vines on ancient Willakenzie sediments. The McLeroys are the fortunate gatekeepers of their land. They farm their own vines, they make the wines on-site, and they live there—it doesn’t get more “artisanal” than that. No herbicides or pesticides have ever been used at the Ayres farm. All the vineyards are dry-farmed implementing organic practices, and the estate has been certified sustainable since 2007.
“Perspective” is a blend of Ayres’ original estate vineyard, as well as two other prime Ribbon Ridge sites located nearby. All hand-harvested fruit for this cuvée fermented with natural yeasts, with a small portion of whole-cluster fruit to enliven texture and add complexity in the finished wine. Before bottling, the wine spent just under one year in French oak, 15% new.
All this means dark-fruited, plush Pinot Noir that’s worlds away from being thick and extracted. Theirs is a Burgundian style that is remarkably light-handed. So, I recommend that you choose a Burgundy stem and pull the wine from a very cool cellar temperature (55F). After a quick 15-30-minute decant, the wine will warm slightly and its stunning aromas will unfurl. High-toned notes of fresh violets and crushed rose petals fill the immediate air, followed by ripe black cherry, wild raspberries, and a wonderful mix of black and red plums. Tea leaves, crushed stone, herbs, forest floor, and subtle baking spices also waft by with an elegant stride. On the palate, Ayres’ 2018 “Perspective” separates itself from the masses: Medium, silky-smooth tannins and lifted acidity are the essential framework but its the vibrant fruit and Ribbon Ridge minerality that serve as the enticing decorations. It’s an absolute joy to drink now, but these wines are no slouches in the aging department—should you want to track its evolution, you can expect 5-8 years of perfect cellaring. Enjoy this remarkable value!
