This wine teaches us to never judge a book by its cover. When we tasted this a few weeks back, everyone at the table did a double-take: Cellar master Yannick Rousseau coaxed extreme generosity out of his California-grown Tannat, then layered in a supporting cast of Cabernets and Merlot to create one of the most unique and delicious red wine values of the year—a $25 ‘daily drinker’ that outperforms many triple-digit blends from Napa and Sonoma.
Tannat might be the world’s most criminally underrated red grape, but Rousseau was put on earth to change that. He fell in love with the variety in his native Gascony, and studied at Madiran’s Château Montus (arguably the world’s most famous Tannat producer) before moving to California with the goal of putting Tannat on the map. His irresistible “Son of a Butcher” is the perfect introduction to the variety for anyone feeling a little gun-shy about its famously beefy structure. Like Yannick himself, this blend has one foot in the Old World and the other in the New—a Californian vin de pays, if you will. One sip will have you scratching your head over why this is your first dip in the Tannat pool—it offers the same texture and intensity I prize in the best Napa Cabernet Sauvignons without the cumbersome price tag. Aside from its varietal makeup, meanwhile, is the spirit in which it is made: It’s not aiming to be a trophy bottling but instead an authentic ‘country’ red that elevates the everyday wine experience. In my opinion, Rousseau actually accomplished both, whether intended or not—this is a delicious, serious, truly memorable California red!
We’ve featured Yannick’s Y. Rousseau wines before on SommSelect and have followed his career with hawk eyes ever since. After all, there aren’t many Californian winemakers inspired by the wines of Gascony—Yannick’s original home and the region of southwest France sandwiched between Toulouse and the Atlantic coastline. His first taste of wine was at the age of five: his grandfather Pepe’s “house wine” made to pair with the dark red meats sold in the family butcher shop. Even then he was completely riveted, and later decided to break the multigenerational tradition of butchering and pursue a full-time career in wine. He obtained his winemaking degree from Toulouse University and studied under the legendary Alain Brumont at Château Montus—ground zero for benchmark Tannat.
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After two years in the Madiran AOC, Yannick moved to California in 1999 and fell in love with the Valley...and then his wife, Susan. He worked for Newton Vineyards and Château Potelle before he and Susan struck out on their own. Their mission is to give traditional Gasconian varieties like Colombard and Tannat a home in Napa, while simultaneously pushing the boundaries of Californian wines—particularly those from the Mt. Veeder AVA. Most are small-batch, single-vineyard wines made in an Old World style, but “Son of a Butcher” is a playful shout-out to the red blends that put Gascony on the map and ignited Yannick’s passion for wine.
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But unlike his native Gascony, California offers unrestricted freedom to blend varieties together and create something both delicious and distinctive. The fruit for “Son of a Butcher” comes from both Napa and Sonoma; think of each vineyard as a puzzle piece, and Yannick snapping them together into an organic whole. Tannat isn’t exactly springing up left-and-right—he sources from the only Tannat vineyard in the Russian River AVA. The cool, foggy mornings and well-draining soil keep the Tannat fresh and crunchy; overripeness is the enemy here. The blend is 45% Tannat joined by 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc. Without question, the Tannat runs the show, but its infamous muscle is rounded and plumped by the other meticulously sourced fruit—most from high up on Mt. Veeder, which has always been the core of his Y. Rousseau wines. Yannick says, “You can’t take the tannin out of Tannat,” but you can definitely harness its power if you’re as talented as he is. Son of a Butcher” is aged in 15% new French oak for 18 months.
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This blend is a bright red/purple in the glass, redolent of dark chocolate, white pepper, and potting soil. It doesn’t follow Tannat’s traditionally blocky lines, but feels supple and plush even without decanting (although it won’t hurt to let it sit for half an hour). Serve this in Bordeaux stems just a hair under room temperature and notice that the muddled berry and licorice aromas are fresh rather than cooked or candied. That’s the influence of Mt. Veeder, where florality and minerality triumph over big jammy fruit. Moderate tannins and medium-plus acidity balance a jaunty blueberry-and-espresso flavored palate. The Tannat’s earthy core becomes more pronounced as the wine sits in your glass...which it won’t do for long. While all four component grape varieties are decidedly French, the final product is unmistakably California: rich and youthful and effortless. In deference to the Rousseau family’s original trade, pair this wine with red meat (or at least an Impossible Burger). I’d recommend a juicy lamb burger heaped with feta since Tannat accompanies gamey, salty flavors so well. With a burger in one hand and your glass in the other, someone else is going to have to open that second bottle.
