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Domaine La Manarine, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, “Pied de Baud”

Rhône Valley, France 2016 (750mL)
Regular price$46.00
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Domaine La Manarine, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, “Pied de Baud”

In typically humble, old-school vigneron fashion, Gilles Gasq doesn’t splash his name in big letters across the front label of his wine. The biggest print is reserved for the appellation, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and his domaine name, La Manarine. But for those who appreciate masterful, Grenache-driven CDP, that little “Gilles Gasq et ses enfants” at the bottom looms very large: Gasq is one of Châteauneuf’s great modern-era talents, having crafted some of the most authentic and critically beloved wines in the region at the legendary Domaine Monpertuis.


After that iconic property was sold in 2013, Gasq regrouped, secured access to some of the best vineyards in the appellation, and debuted his Domaine La Manarine wines to major fanfare in 2015. Which leads me to some other (relatively) small print on the label: “Pied de Baud.” This is one of the greatest lieu-dit (named-site) vineyards in all Châteauneuf-du-Pape, situated on the famed “Plan de Dieu” (“God’s plain”) at the northern end of the AOC. Among the many famous bottlings from Pied de Baud is one of my all-time favorites—the epic, $90-per-bottle “Cuvée des Félix” from Bois de Boursan. For roughly half that price, you get Gasq’s organically grown, 100% Grenache masterpiece from the same site. We loved (and offered) the debut 2015, so the calendar was circled for the arrival of this ’16—which, as we suspected, confirms La Manarine as one of the greatest-value CDP’s on the market. Pedigree, soul, balance…this has it all!


[PLEASE NOTE: This wine is being sold as a pre-offer and will arrive in our warehouse in approximately two weeks’ time.]
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Gasq’s winery and most of his 33 hectares of vineyards are in the commune of Travaillan, north of Orange, but the two vineyard sources for today’s wine are marginally to the west. Covered in large cailloux stones deposited by the Rhône River, the sandy “Cabrières” vineyard is one of the most celebrated parcels in the northern half of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and makes up about 20% of this wine; nevertheless, the label carries the name of its principal source, Pied de Baud, which is also packed with river cobble under a deep layer of sandy red clay. The average age of Gasq’s Grenache vines in the two sites is 45 years, lending this wine serious depth and dimension: Whereas some 100% Grenache Châteauneufs are dominated by red fruits and florals, this one skews a little darker, with Grenache’s characteristic licorice note, without losing the all-important freshness that sets it apart from so many overwrought versions of CDP these days.
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Fermented on native yeasts in stainless steel using 50% whole grape bunches (a practice which seems to firm up and focus the structure and prevent excessive ‘sappiness’ of fruit), La Manarine’s Pied de Baud was aged in a mix of large, neutral oak demi-muids and stainless steel tanks. The wine displays a deep ruby-purple core moving to magenta at the rim, jumping from the glass with pure, unadulterated aromas of black raspberry, dark cherry, and tooth-staining mulberry fruit. Behind the plush, luxuriously dark fruit there are layers and layers of berry liqueur, Mediterranean spices, sweet licorice and blue flowers. There is also an exuberant and inexhaustible sense of energy and balance here that keeps the wine pleasing to the palate and irrepressibly delicious after many hours. Give this a 30-minute decant before serving at 60 degrees in large Bordeaux stems and you’re good to go—I peg this as a ‘near-term’ drinker that will bring loads of pleasure now and over the next 3-5 years. Pair it with the attached braised lamb recipe to highlight its herby, scrubby Mediterranean character. This is everything you could ask for in a Châteauneuf, and then some!

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France

Bourgogne

Beaujolais

Enjoying the greatest wines of Beaujolais starts, as it usually does, with the lay of the land. In Beaujolais, 10 localities have been given their own AOC (Appellation of Controlled Origin) designation. They are: Saint Amour; Juliénas; Chénas; Moulin-à Vent; Fleurie; Chiroubles; Morgon; Régnié; Côte de Brouilly; and Brouilly.

Southwestern France

Bordeaux

Bordeaux surrounds two rivers, the Dordogne and Garonne, which intersect north of the city of Bordeaux to form the Gironde Estuary, which empties into the Atlantic Ocean. The region is at the 45th parallel (California’s Napa Valley is at the38th), with a mild, Atlantic-influenced climate enabling the maturation of late-ripening varieties.

Central France

Loire Valley

The Loire is France’s longest river (634 miles), originating in the southerly Cévennes Mountains, flowing north towards Paris, then curving westward and emptying into the Atlantic Ocean near Nantes. The Loire and its tributaries cover a huge swath of central France, with most of the wine appellations on an east-west stretch at47 degrees north (the same latitude as Burgundy).

Northeastern France

Alsace

Alsace, in Northeastern France, is one of the most geologically diverse wine regions in the world, with vineyards running from the foothills of theVosges Mountains down to the Rhine River Valley below.

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