There are few things more surprising than opening a bottle of nine-year-old Chenin Blanc from the Loire and tasting wine that has the texture and profundity of mature Premier Cru Puligny-Montrachet. But here I am, staring down at Domaine Lambert’s explosive 2011 and thinking to myself, “this is one of my favorite white wines of the year.”
Throw everything you know about mature Chenin Blanc out the window and let’s start from scratch. This isn’t tired, this isn’t oxidized, this isn’t nutty or bruised. This wine is perfect, fresh, and mineral—an instinctual 10 out of 10. Bottle age has given it a touch of richness, softening the edges of its crystalline acidity without robbing it of any life or fruit. Coming from Domaine Lambert I knew it was going to be delicious, but I could never have predicted the longevity and exuberance of this wine. Their 20 years of biodynamic viticulture in the heart of Chinon have really paid off—there’s no way to
make wine this good, it has to be
grown. Béatrice and Pascal have invested their time, love, energy, and expertise into their 13 hectares and you can feel their respect for the land in every drop. It would be right at home on a three-Michelin-star menu, but I’m not going to complain about having more available for purchase here. Especially when a bottle costs just shy of $40...highway robbery for one of the most exciting and eye-opening white wines of 2020!
Domaine Lambert was founded in 1987, located just 15 minutes outside of the town of Chinon in the village of Cravant-les-Côteaux. The lieu-dit of “Les Chesnaies” nestles up to their farmhouse and winery, part of 13 pristine hectares of biodynamically farmed Cabernet Franc and Chenin Blanc. Béatrice and Pascal have farmed organically for over 20 years and achieved their biodynamic certification through Biodyvin in 2005. They are seriously committed to the well-being of their vines and, to a greater extent, the world. These two cut no corners in their quest for terroir. They create each biodynamic preparation themselves, and take a full year to transform winery and garden waste into the richest compost imaginable, teeming with life.
Pascale is in the vines, in the chai, on the road—everywhere really—while Béatrice keeps the domaine running smoothly (when she’s not whipping up enticing local delicacies in the kitchen). Domaine Lambert’s team is seven people strong, each member personally dedicated to respecting the soil and the vine through the best farming possible. That includes Isis the draft horse, who patiently pulls the plow through all 13 hectares of organic cover-crops with Pascal right behind her, admiring his vines. Soil type varies (their website has incredibly detailed maps) from sand to gravel with pockets of clay-limestone and flint-based clay. “Les Chesnaies” is planted squarely in clay-limestone soils, which impart the pure, ringing minerality I expect from Loire whites. Every single grape is hand-harvested before a direct press and fermentation with indigenous yeasts. Every single step in the cellar is scheduled according to the lunar calendar. Wine is moved into 400- to 500-liter French oak casks for 11 months of aging on fine lees, and malolactic fermentation occurs naturally in the Spring when temperatures begin to warm.
The wine shimmers like beaten gold in the glass. Before you even take a sip you can tell it’s not oxidized in the slightest. There’s no browning, just bright, luminous yellow. And I’ve got to admit something: I would have completely missed this blind. It does not smell like nine-year-old Chenin Blanc. It’s luxurious and explosive—a bomb of fresh quince and crispy yellow apple (unbruised!). There’s a whiff of warm beeswax and that’s what gives it away as a Chenin. And even if you picked up on the variety it would be impossible to guess that “Les Chesnaies” is nine years old. The purity and concentration here is nothing short of jaw-dropping. Notes of autumnal fruit become more pronounced on the palate, enriched by a touch of brioche, toasted anise seeds, and runny honey. The fruit is still fresh and stylish and the acidity is still steely, so brace yourself for a mouthwatering finish and rich texture. “Les Chesnaies” will definitely benefit from a half-hour stretch in decanter before serving at 50 degrees in big Burgundy stems.
I mentioned this wine belongs at one of the world’s best restaurants, but don’t be daunted by trying to pair with this kind of brilliance. You can create something just as compelling at home. Try Vietnamese sizzling rice crèpes overflowing with prawns and soft-leaf herbs. They’re golden just like the wine and their combination of crunchy, spicy, and sweet will make for a really dynamic combination with the intensity and focus of the Chenin. I’m so, so curious to see how this wine continues to develop. I have absolutely no doubt it will be singing for the next five years, deepening in richness and waiting for another special occasion. Make sure you have a few extra bottles on hand so you can check in on its progress. It’s not every day you get to enjoy this kind of genius.
