It’s hard not to love a wine that’s equally at home on the ski slopes as by the pool. If that sounds far-fetched, you need some Jacquère in your life—ideally from a venerated producer like the great Famille Richel. Today’s perfect Alpine white is equal parts textured and laser-focused, sourced from high-elevation vineyards in the distinguished Savoie
cru of Apremont.
The Richels have quietly been making extraordinary wine here since the 1950s, focusing on their mountain terroir with the single-minded passion of true natives. The resulting wines are so viscerally delicious they’ll have you bursting into “The Hills Are Alive” while you spin, Julie Andrews style, around your kitchen. But “La Combelle” deserves more than just a serenade; it’s as cerebral as it is drinkable. This 100% Jacquère features the same structural hallmarks of Grand Cru Chablis—electric acidity, crystalline minerality—with additional delicate top notes of flowers and raw cream. So pack a picnic, hit the slopes, or hop in the Jacuzzi; just don’t forget the Richel. The first bottle will be for pleasure and the second, for conversation. There’s no need for hesitation when you get this much wine for this little price.
The story of Famille Richel begins with Joseph. In the 1950s he sold whole barrels of his Apremont wines to the cozy little bars in the nearby village of Chambéry. He established their familial home and winery just a few kilometers away in the village of Saint Baldoph, right where the Chartreuse Mountains give way to emerald plains dotted with wildflowers. Apremont is one of the most prestigious sub-regions of the Savoie due to its sheltered position at the base of Mont Granier. In 1248, an enormous limestone mass poised on the tip of the mountain came loose from its marl base and toppled into the fields below, completely destroying five different villages and scattering limestone debris into (future) vineyards for miles around the disaster. For this reason, wines from Saint Baldoph feature floral characteristics born of limestone, while wines from Apremont are a bit more mineral thanks to a predominance of clay and marl studded with limestone chips. The Richel’s benefit from both terroirs, with a total of 7.5 hectares spread across the two. Today, they choose sustainable farming methods and minimally invasive winemaking to showcase their chiseled, mountainous flavors.
Apremont’s Jacquère ripens slowly with light exposure rather than quickly in concentrated heat. Eastern-facing slopes mean the 52-year-old vines are bathed in morning sun until every grape is plump, ripe, but still wonderfully fresh. Jacquère will produce a fountain of grapes if left to its own devices, so Richel makes several passes to drop imperfect bunches, ensuring maximum concentration of flavor in the remaining grapes. The fruit is hand-picked into baskets before a delicate pneumatic pressing. The wine is then aged sur lie (on its lees, or spent yeast cells) in temperature-controlled stainless steel.
Someone unfamiliar with this variety could easily mistake its structure for Chablis, but La Combelle’s aromas tell a different story. Notes of bitter almond cream and choux pastry are balanced by a whiff of minerals and alpine flowers. Serve it from 45-50 degrees for maximum refreshment, or 50-55 to discover more subtle notes of under-ripe pear. Its pale straw yellow hides a surprising amount of body. There’s a pleasing viscosity due to its time on lees but bright notes of green apple, key lime, and sea salt keep it vivacious. Fresh cream, lemon blossom, running water...I could wax poetic about all the mouthwatering notes packed into this unexpected wine. It’s just rich enough to satisfy you and just crisp enough to cool you down—the perfect wine to crack open on an evening in early Spring.
There are about 30 different spring vegetables I’m tempted to pair here. Try some tender endive wrapped in ham and covered in béchamel. Do not hold back on the gruyère—it’s going to turn crispy and bubbly on top. Just like the wine, this dish is a perfect mix of rich and delicate. Every bite, every sip, brings you just a little closer to Spring. And with a string of gorgeous warm-weather months ahead of us, you’ll need to stock up now.
