Every time a Syrah disciple descends Mount Sinai with a list of the Northern Rhône’s most sought-after and age-worthy producers, Domaine Bernard Levet is unquestionably among them—and today’s single-parcel bottling is their most elusive gem. “Chavaroche” has been imported into the US since its inaugural vintage in 1983, making it a longstanding collector’s item and Levet’s “OG” cuvée.
Still, you’ll never find more than 200 total cases for American consumption, and they've now become so tightly allocated that sampling a bottle is a rare occasion—you either buy what you can or forever miss out on the opportunity. Typically, it’s rationed out to the finest restaurants and retailers in single-case portions, and only a select few are ever granted access to a sizable trove. Case in point: the last vintage we offered was 2012. It’s not that we turned down the last four releases, either—we just didn’t have access. That all changes today. Not only does Levet’s stunning 2017 hold everything that made them world-famous—intense savor, classic rusticity, remarkable structure, unrivaled ageability—but it is also the most accessible and generous new release we’ve tried. That said, we urge you to treat this as a precious investment. At five years old, it’ll begin opening up; at 10, it’ll hit its stride; at 15-20, you’ll be rewarded with one of the finest Syrah experiences imaginable.
We’ve shared before how the launching of this website in 2014 coincided with a steep global increase in the demand for top-tier northern Rhône Syrah, especially for cult producers like Jamet (Côte-Rôtie), Allemand (Cornas), and JL Chave (Hermitage). Prices have skyrocketed while availability has evaporated, and even small family estates that formerly flew under the radar are now universally recognized by the highfalutin press and in sky-high demand with collectors. So, the “good old days” of easily cherry-picking top wines from the northern Rhône are officially over—which is why we are doubly excited to offer this wine. This bottle is produced in a bedroom-sized cellar and is considered the top wine from one of my all-time favorite micro-producers in Côte-Rôtie.
Bernard Levet farms 3.5 hectares of vines above the village of Ampuis. He owns vines in some of the most prestigious real estate in the Côte-Rôtie appellation, including the famed parcels “Moulin” and “Landonne.” (You might be familiar with the latter vineyard site, made famous by E. Guigal, whose La Landonne bottling of the same vintage retails for $300-$400). These properties have been in the family since the 1930s and today they are still farmed in exactly the same manner: no tractors, no chemicals, and everything is done by hand. This particular bottling, the Côte-Rôtie “La Chavaroche,” is considered the family’s top wine. Legendary importer Neal Rosenthal says “It is, quite simply, a ferocious wine, unique in its uninhibited expression of the smells and flavors of the appellation. No compromise is brooked here...one of the most elite wines in our personal pantheon.” We couldn’t agree more.
In 2017, fruit was harvested by hand and left entirely in whole clusters before fermentation in large tanks. The process of macerating the grapes and carrying the juice through alcoholic and malolactic fermentation at this property is never rushed and often does not complete until the new year. Following fermentation, the wine is aged in demi-muids (10-15% new) for 12 months, and then racked into a mix of demi-muids and small barrels before bottling and further aging until release—the entire process generally takes 2.5+ years. This gradual, delicate approach in the cellar produces wines that are incredibly nuanced, aromatic, and perfect for extended aging.
Bernard Levet’s 2017 overflows with everything I seek in Côte-Rôtie. One sip proves this is an instant classic and a convincing testament to why Domaine Levet’s limited-production “Chavaroche” is among the top authentic Syrahs on the market. It reveals a deep and brooding purple-ruby in the glass and pouts like an angsty teen right out of the bottle. So, even though this is accessible, as compared to other vintages, it still requires a minimum three-hour decant right now. Alternatively, you can pull the cork in the morning, double decant, and allow it to rest in a cool, dark place until dinner time. When the time to savor finally comes, you’ll be greeted with brilliant bursts of dried black cherry, black plums, crushed rock, boysenberry, damp violets, smoked meat, grilled herbs, raw leather, finely cracked black pepper, green olive tapenade, and a touch of exotic baking spices. Its classic raw and rugged character shines beautifully alongside a ripe core of brambleberries and crushed mineral savor, resulting in a multi-textured and -dimensional experience. This is not for the faint of heart. It’s for the most dedicated Syrah lovers and those who appreciate the sculpted-from-granite art that is old-school Côte-Rôtie. And remember: the longer you cellar this, the greater the reward. Cheers!
