Since its founding in 1991, Karl Lawrence Cellars has harnessed the power of relationships—with vinegrowers first and foremost, but also with its cult following of Napa Cabernet aficionados, who appreciate the stripped-down, no-artifice approach of creator Ric Henry.
As he states, plainly and confidently: “When you purchase a bottle of Karl Lawrence, you’re not paying for a heavy bottle, extravagant facility, or a marketing staff. You’re paying for a bottle of great wine.” Ric and his team have forged many fruitful partnerships over the years, sourcing grapes from Napa Valley’s most prestigious vineyards. We’re talking To-Kalon; Morisoli; Herb Lamb; and Ric’s own family property, Henry Brothers Ranch. That pristine source material, in the capable hands of winemaker Bruce Devlin, is turned into one of the most consistent ‘pound-for-pound’ Cabernets in the game. It pops up on top wine lists and was named a “smoking value” by well-known critic Jeb Dunnuck, but it’s far from ubiquitous: Just 250 cases of this voluptuous ’15 were produced, a few of which we managed to snag before the winery put up the “Sold Out” sign. Take up to six bottles today and get to know a wine that truly prioritizes substance over flash. This is the genuine article!
Ric Henry first began making wine as a teenager, working with his brother Bryan on the grounds of his parents’ Calistoga ranch. It didn’t seem like much of a stretch, then, when the Henry brothers later joined forces with winemaker Mike Trujillo to launch Karl Lawrence. Ric was then a social worker who had returned to the Napa Valley so his wife, Cheryl, could practice medicine there. As the winery evolved over the decades, eventually Bruce Devlin stepped in as winemaker, replacing Trujillo; Ric became proprietor, running the place with Cheryl.
In recent vintages, Karl Lawrence has consistently secured fruit from two historic locations: Pocai Vineyard is a rocky, well-drained plot at the northern end of the Silverado Trail. Its vineyards are planted not only to Cabernet Sauvignon, but to Petite Sirah, Zinfandel, Merlot, and Malbec—all thriving in full sun. For more than a century, the property has been owned and farmed by the Ballentine family. Elsewhere in the Napa Valley, at the base of Howell Mountain, lies Fig Tree Vineyard. So named for the two massive trees that guard the property, its vines (Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Lagrein) are shaded from the morning sun, resulting in slow ripening and elegant, complex wines. The range of fruit profiles found in these two vineyards provide ideal components for the final Karl Lawrence blend.
We happened to get our hands on some of the 2015 vintage of this wine, and it is just starting tio blossom into something special. Wines from 2015 were universally lauded, hailed as “positively stunning in their beauty” by Antonio Galloni of
Vinous, and noted as offering “opulent, voluptuous wines with real personality and character.” Karl Lawrence’s 2015 features Cabernet Sauvignon (84%) along with Petit Verdot (9.5%), Merlot (5%), and a balance of Cabernet Franc and Petite Sirah. Ample and robust, the finished wine gleams an inky purple, offering up juicy black cherry along with the full Cabernet gamut of tobacco, cedar, and leather. If you’re intent on cellaring the wine, rest assured that it has plenty of life ahead. It’s also drinking well now, so why not seize the day? Serve it in large Bordeaux stems at 60-65 degrees after a 30-45 minute decant. Forget the trappings of luxury for an evening, and pair this wine with a hearty lamb burger—and don’t forget to share with friends!