It takes some doing from a pronunciation standpoint, but Austria’s red wine country—where grapes such as Zweigelt, Blaufränkisch, and Sankt Laurent thrive—is an exciting place to be right now. Today’s captivating red is a perfect example as to why: It’s delicious, balanced, unlike anything else, and full of the purity and energy that comes from organically farmed grapes.
If you’ve subscribed to SommSelect for any length of time, you’re probably better-acquainted with Austria’s world-famous white wines, from regions such as Wachau and Kremstal. But lately, we’ve been addicted to the reds grown along Austria’s borders with Slovenia, Hungary, and Slovakia. If you have yet to explore the likes of Burgenland, Neusiedlersee, and today’s destination, Carnuntum, you’re missing out on some of the most unique and well-priced reds on the market. Johannes Trapl is part of a new generation seeking to elevate the reputation of these local wines, and his estate, founded in 2003, is starting to get some well-deserved traction. Along with his neighbor and co-conspirator, Dorli Muhr, Johannes showcases the limestone-rich terroir of Spitzerberg, a key subzone of the Carnuntum appellation. Today’s lush, tangy, gently oaked red wouldn’t be at all out of place in Beaujolais/Burgundy, though it skews a little more dark-fruited thanks to its dominant component, Zweigelt. The more reds I taste from this part of the world, the more I’m convinced of their excellence—try this and you’ll see what I mean!
Trapl launched his label with just one acre of vineyards in the village of Göttlesbrunn, having returned to his home turf after an international winemaking journey that took him as far west as Cardinale Estate in the Napa Valley. Upon his return to Austria, and Carnuntum, he not only began reviving vineyards first planted by his grandfather but began working at the nearby Muhr-van der Niepoort estate, whose wines we’ve offered here on SommSelect (that winery, a collaboration between Dorli Muhr and her ex-husband, fellow winemaker Dirk Niepoort, is now known simply as Weingut Dorli Muhr). Trapl and Muhr are leading the charge for Carnuntum, and their efforts have not gone unnoticed: Wine Spectator is paying attention, having interviewed Dorli Muhr about Carnuntum’s recent recognition as a unique DAC (Districtus Austriae Controllatus). “Carnuntum has the potential of taking the lead in red wine quality of Austria,” Muhr told the Spectator, “because we are a small region with a very strong regional spirit between all producers.”
Indeed, the tiny 1,000-hectare region straddles the border between Austria and Slovakia, skirting the northern tip of Burgenland. The area takes its name from a Roman city, the ruins of which are strewn about the Danube River’s shoreline. When Trapl made the pilgrimage to Göttlesbrunn, he wasted no time in identifying the best sites for grape-growing, which fall into three hilly areas—the Leitha Mountains, the Arbesthaler Hills, and the Hainburger Mountains. Hot summers, tempered by cold winters are the results of two major geographical confluences: the Pannonian plain and Carpathian range along the Slovakian border and the temperature-regulating Danube River and Lake Neusiedl. Red grapes ripen slowly and evenly thanks to the water’s mitigating effects. Zweigelt thrives in the deep loamy, loess and gravel soils, while layers of limestone atop deep granite beds in Spitzerberg give rise to exceptional Blaufränkisch.
Trapl and Muhr have farmed organically since 2006 and obtained organic certification in their winery in 2010. They harvest based on taste, eschewing instruments that measure Brix levels, and kick-start native yeast fermentation by foot-treading in large concrete vats. The wines are then aged in a combination of stainless steel tanks, oak casks, and clay amphorae and bottled unfined. Beginning in 2019, the DAC's new rules decree that all wine labeled Carnuntum DAC must be fermented dry, with alcohol reaching 12 percent or higher.
As for the 2016 Trapl Carnuntum Red, hovers right at a balanced 12.5% alcohol combining 85% Zweigelt, 10% Blaufränkisch, and 5% Sankt Laurent. In the glass, it shows a dark, vibrant ruby-purple color and a good swirl reveals lifted aromas of black cherries, crushed blackberries, and tremendous savory earth notes in the form of pulverized volcanic rock, and high-toned graphite aromas. With a medium-plus body supported by fine-grained, gentle, but firm tannins, the fruit really begins to shine revealing more muddled plum, bruised red cherry, and cherry pit, and finishes long revealing dried herbs, spices, and more crushed-stone minerality. Pull the cork on several bottles and pour into large Burgundy stems at 60 degrees. It would be especially delicious with barbecue, which isn’t especially Austrian but what the heck—it’s fun to mix things up every so often, especially when the wine is this lip-smackingly good. Enjoy!
