Honestly, I thought wines like this had all but ceased to exist. Given the costs of inputs in today’s Napa Valley, it’s not often you see a Cabernet Sauvignon of genuine pedigree at this price point. At $32 you’re more likely to find something mass-produced and largely innocuous, not a 2,500-case boutique bottling with the kind of power and polish that pushes other wines into three-digit territory.
Color us impressed: The Bump family of Napa’s Darms Lane have created something special with their “Fortune 1621” label, namely one of the best values for real-deal Napa Valley Cabernet any of us has ever seen. Today’s 2017 was poured for us without any mention of price, which made the eventual “reveal” that much more dramatic: We were prepared to pay (and charge) more for it, because it would still have been a great buy, but once we learned the real number it became a question of how fast we could get it up on the site. So, here it is: Delicious, distinctive, small-production Cabernet offering value on par with SommSelect subscriber-favorite “Consortium” from Band of Vintners. I didn’t think I’d see the day, but this is it!
“Fortune 1621” is a label created by the Bump family, whose estate, Darms Lane, is in the Oak Knoll district of Napa Valley. Formerly known as Crichton Hall Winery and focused primarily on Chardonnay, it was acquired by Larry Bump in 2002 and promptly re-planted to the “Bordeaux” varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Cabernet Franc. In addition to their own Darms Lane wines, which are produced in tiny quantities, the Bumps sold grapes to a handful of other producers, most notably Spottswoode (for use in their acclaimed “Lyndenhurst” Cabernet Sauvignon). The creation of Fortune 1621 provided a new, more affordable showcase for some of that estate-grown Cabernet (more than half the blend), which is supplemented by purchased fruit from Oak Knoll, Rutherford, and St. Helena.
The name for this new project is derived from that of a ship, called Fortune, which landed in Plymouth in 1621 (a year after the Mayflower) and included one Edouard Bompasse among its passengers—of whom the Bumps are direct descendants. Fanciful as that “branding” may be, however, make no mistake: This is a serious Cabernet with real pedigree, not an anonymous bulk wine with clever packaging. For all its dense concentration, there’s also surprising freshness on display in today’s 2017, which speaks to the uniqueness of the Oak Knoll District AVA: Located at the southern end of the Napa Valley, the region experiences a cooling influence from the nearby San Pablo Bay, which lengthens the growing season and helps preserve acidity. There’s plenty of juicy, ultra-ripe Cabernet out there at this price point, but much less with this level of nerve, minerality, and detail.
Comprised of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon with smaller percentages of Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Cabernet Franc, this 2017 was crafted by Darms Lane winemaker Brian Mox and aged in a combination of French and American oak barrels (about 15% new). In the glass, it is an opaque ruby-purple moving to magenta at the rim, with powerful aromas of blackberry, cassis, currant, tobacco, cocoa powder, violets, and graphite. It is full-bodied, without a doubt, but its saturated fruit is lifted by bright acidity—a big yet nimble wine that drinks well now. Pull the cork on this delicious Cabernet about 15 minutes before serving at 60-65 degrees in Bordeaux stems and pair it with something comparably hearty and satisfying: It’s almost time to take the cover off your grill and start cooking outside again, so take the attached recipe and run with it. You’ll be very happy to have a glass of this wine by your side as you work. Enjoy!