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Dominique Lafon, Beaune Rouge 1er Cru, “Vignes Franches”

Burgundy, France 2017 (750mL)
$85.00
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Fruit
Earth
Body
Tannin
Acid
Alcohol

Dominique Lafon, Beaune Rouge 1er Cru, “Vignes Franches”

Even casual observers of the Burgundy wine scene know who Dominique Lafon is. Having helmed his family’s iconic Domaine des Comtes Lafon since the 1980s, and having been one of Burgundy’s most outspoken advocates for organic and biodynamic farming, Dominique is a widely recognized “face” of Burgundy wine and a hugely respected one, too—so when he started crafting a few wines under his own label, from hand-picked vineyards in the Côte de Beaune, sommeliers and collectors fell all over themselves to get their hands on some.
Everything this man releases is simply impeccable—exceptionally pure, refined, and free of excess “makeup”—as exemplified by today’s silken red from the “Vignes Franches” Premier Cru in the village of Beaune. This is a labor-of-love project for Lafon, who is technically a négociant in this instance but either owns or oversees the farming of all the vineyards he works with. Vignes Franches isn’t as well-known as some of Beaune’s other top Premier Crus (like its neighbor, “Clos des Mouches”), but in Lafon’s case, it’s the source of his most structured, age-worthy red—not to mention one of the best values in his lineup. The lucky few who grab some of this today are going to feel awfully good about themselves when they crack a bottle in 7-10 years and recall what they paid for it; crack a bottle now and you’ll see what I’m talking about!
Although still very much the Meursault master of Comtes Lafon, Dominique’s solo venture has taken him further afield, to vineyards and growers he’s long admired. His vineyard holdings—some owned outright, others under contract and biodynamically farmed by Comtes Lafon’s team—include about five hectares in Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, Volnay, and Beaune. The wines are vinified at the Chateau de Bligny, which Dominique shares with fellow winemaker Pierre Morey and operates as a kind of “custom crush” facility for smaller-scale vintners in the region.

The plot of old vines in Vignes Franches that supplies today’s 2017 is lovingly tended by a grower who also supplies Lafon with pristine fruit from the famed “Gréves” Premier Cru, also in Beaune. It sits near the top of the vineyard, and as with most of the vineyard sites in his “DL” portfolio, Lafon chose it for its slightly higher elevation and propensity for wines with more “tension” and minerality. This ’17, while quite generous and full of cherry fruit on the mid-palate, is true to form; I found it to have a very classic, Old School Burgundy character to it, especially on the finish, which is woodsy and mineral.

In the glass, Lafon’s 2017 Vignes Franches is a deep, luminous ruby-red moving to magenta and pink at the rim, with perfumed aromas of red currants, wild strawberries, black cherries, violets, and more earthbound notes of crushed rocks, underbrush, black tea, and pepper. It glides across the mid-palate and displays nice plush fruit before buttoning up on the spicy, savory finish. If you’re drinking a bottle soon, I’d advise decanting for about an hour before serving at 60-65 degrees in Burgundy stems. Otherwise, be confident that this will reward 7-10 years’ further aging if you’re so inclined (I know I am). The polish and precision of this bottling makes me think of leaner beef or veal, with a little earthy richness to draw out the same qualities in the wine. This is an elite bottle, regardless of what the price may say—do not miss it!
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Country
France
Region
Burgundy
Sub-Region
FranceBeaune 1er Cru
Soil
Clay & Limestone
Farming
Certified Organic and Biodynamic
Blend
Pinot Noir 100%
Alcohol
13.0
OAK
French Oak Barriques
TEMP.
60-65
Glassware
Burgundy Stems
Drinking
Now-2030
Decanting
One Hour
Pairing
Veal w/ Mushroom Sauce

France

Bourgogne

Beaujolais

Enjoying the greatest wines of Beaujolais starts, as it usually does, with the lay of the land. In Beaujolais, 10 localities have been given their own AOC (Appellation of Controlled Origin) designation. They are: Saint Amour; Juliénas; Chénas; Moulin-à Vent; Fleurie; Chiroubles; Morgon; Régnié; Côte de Brouilly; and Brouilly.

Southwestern France

Bordeaux

Bordeaux surrounds two rivers, the Dordogne and Garonne, which intersect north of the city of Bordeaux to form the Gironde Estuary, which empties into the Atlantic Ocean. The region is at the 45th parallel (California’s Napa Valley is at the38th), with a mild, Atlantic-influenced climate enabling the maturation of late-ripening varieties.

Central France

Loire Valley

The Loire is France’s longest river (634 miles), originating in the southerly Cévennes Mountains, flowing north towards Paris, then curving westward and emptying into the Atlantic Ocean near Nantes. The Loire and its tributaries cover a huge swath of central France, with most of the wine appellations on an east-west stretch at47 degrees north (the same latitude as Burgundy).

Northeastern France

Alsace

Alsace, in Northeastern France, is one of the most geologically diverse wine regions in the world, with vineyards running from the foothills of theVosges Mountains down to the Rhine River Valley below.

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