Just when I thought I had a strong grasp on an appellation as prominent, influential, and historic as Châteauneuf-du-Pape, a producer like Domaine Juliette Avril lands on my table. Aside from the record-shattering value it offers, this is one of the most significant, need-to-know names in a region already dominated by blockbusters like Rayas and Beaucastel.
In 1936, Châteauneuf-du-Pape became the first official wine appellation, establishing a precedent that defines fine French wine as we know it today. But leading up to that historical year, there were key players that helped create and promote these wine laws, and patriarch Jean Avril was among them. Today, his grand and great-grandchildren carry on his legacy by bottling the purest and most authentic CdP value I’ve ever found. By harnessing the superb 2017 vintage and all the elements of Châteauneuf’s legendary terroir, an unforgettable wine of Burgundian refinement and rugged Southern Rhône power was born. If it’s an unbeatable value you’re seeking, this dripping-with-royalty, $35 stunner should be framed and forever immortalized. Bottom line: It’s an absolute must for anyone who loves drinking and cellaring true-blue classic French wine.
In the last few decades, many producers in the Southern Rhône stronghold of Châteauneuf-du-Pape have swung for the fences, aiming for unabashedly “modern” styles of wine—but not everyone. The ones who have resisted the trend are producers I seek out, which is why we were so thrilled to stumble upon the iconic, resolutely traditional Domaine Juliette Avril. With so much history swirling around the estate, along with a strong allegiance to tradition, they have built up an impressive amount of old-vine real estate over the decades.
Here in the Southern Rhône, the expansive valley floor is planted mostly to Grenache, though the diverse soil composition (sands, iron-rich clays, limestone, and large, rounded large pebbles, or galets) allows for a vast amount of terroir variation. As a result, the region is home to more than myriad grape varieties, but Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre are typically the dominating varieties in these wines. An adherent to tradition, Juliette Avril incorporates all three, with Grenache making up the lion’s share of their cuvée.
The family farms with respect to nature and biodiversity and does all harvesting and sorting by hand, usually during a one-week stretch in mid-September. Their flagship cuvée is comprised of roughly 65% Grenache, 25% Syrah, and 10% Mourvèdre and fermentation occurs in a combination of stainless steel and concrete vessels. Following, the resulting wine is transferred into demi-muids (large French barrels) for 12 months. In total, about 16 months pass before the wine is bottled with a very light filtration.
Juliette Avril’s 2017 rouge reveals a deep ruby center that effuses bright garnet hues as you approach the rim. The overall impression is a sublime and regal Southern Rhône red that has the elegance of fine Burgundy, but make no mistake about its typicity and origin—as their winemaker says, “we are certainly in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and nowhere else.” The bountiful and plush palate reveals an outpouring of densely layered brambly fruit and garrigue that is infused with ripe currants, raspberry liqueur, damp violets, herbs, olive, grilled meat, leather, and baking spice. It’s a wine that highlights every signature aromatic and desirable textural component of a world-class CdP. Rich, nuanced, and never overblown, this magnificent red glides across the palate with ultra-smooth tannins and pronounced acidity. For $35, you cannot find anything remotely on par with this. Serve in large Bordeaux stems (Burgundy works too) and decant for at least 30 minutes before enjoying alongside a gamey dish with a Provençal influence. Cheers!
