Now is the time of year for “listicles,” whether they’re greatest-hits summaries of the year that was or predictions for the new year ahead. Either way, German Pinot Noir is on our list: Some of the most unique and well-priced expressions of the ‘heartbreak’ grape come to us from regions such as Baden, Pfalz, and today’s destination, Rheingau, whose “Assmanhäuser Höllenberg” vineyard has a long-established reputation for world-class Pinot Noir.
Let’s not forget that Germany has nearly the same deep history with the grape as Burgundy, and that Germany ranks third in the world (behind France and the US) in total Pinot Noir plantings. Pinot is no sideshow, as today’s wine from Karl-Johann Molitor emphatically proves, even if its bargain pricing might suggest otherwise. Many Pinot Noir producers in the Rheingau point out that their vineyards are actually a few clicks further north in latitude than those of Burgundy, no minor distinction when you factor in the insidious creep of global warming, and everything I love and crave from the great reds of Burgundy—finesse, perfume, minerality—is on display in this velvety, brightly fruited 2016. Given how much space we devoted to German Pinot in 2019, it should come as no surprise that we’re leading off 2020 with this single-vineyard stunner—it’s early yet, but this is one of the best red wine values you’ll see all year!
And it is worth repeating that “
Hollenberg” is one of the iconic Pinot Noir vineyards in all of Germany. This staggeringly steep, south-facing site is in the riverside village of Assmannshäusen, toward the western end of the Rheingau appellation. One of the unique features of the Rheingau, as German wine aficionados know well, is that it occupies a stretch of the Rhine where the river takes a westward turn, with vineyards planted on the northern bank and thus blessed with full-south, all-day exposures. Assmannshäusen is one of the last stops before the Rhine turns northward again, and “Höllenberg” is one of the few vineyards along this stretch where Pinot Noir, not Riesling, is the focus. Soils in this spectacular site, which in places reaches a 65% gradient, are a blend of fragmented slate-phyllite and quartz. This rocky composition, and ultra-thin topsoil, prevents the vines from retaining much water, causing them to struggle and naturally yield less fruit. In the end, the combination of deep concentration and ethereal freshness is what makes the wines from the site such unique Pinot Noir experiences—ripe fruit, smoky minerality, velvet-soft tannins, and mouth-watering acidity are the calling cards.
As is so often the case in classic regions like the Rheingau, the Molitor family has winegrowing roots in the area dating back more than a century; the current Karl Molitor has run the small estate since 1999, favoring large, used casks for aging his Pinot Noir, and this 2016 is a beautifully balanced, silken-textured example of what the Hollenberg vineyard is capable of: In the glass, the wine is a deep ruby-red and shimmers with soft pink reflections along the rim. The mix of fruit on the nose and palate is mostly red—cherry, strawberry, wild raspberry—though there are hints of black cherry liqueur and black plum. A beautiful interplay of stony, smoky minerality and floral aromatics is another attractive feature, as notes of violet, rose petals, wet slate, and underbrush carry through a soft and aromatic finish. The tannins are extremely fine, making it a great ‘drink-now’ wine, though I can see it continuing to evolve over the next 5-7 years if kept well. But really, there’s no need to wait: Open 15 minutes before serving in Burgundy stems at 60-65 degrees and watch it blossom quickly, alongside a nice wintry mixed grill of sausages or, if you crave authenticity, a classic German sauerbraten. The proportions of this wine are such that it’ll go with just about anything, so take my advice: Take as much of this as you can fit, because you’re going to appreciate having it around. Cheers!
