Four months ago, we unveiled what was arguably the most exciting sellout of 2019: Our first-ever offering of a highly sought-after ‘GG’ Riesling, Germany’s answer to Grand Cru. The velocity with which our allocation vanished was matched by the ensuing flood of inquiries—many of you were left empty-handed, while countless others wanted more—but sadly, we were unable to fulfill anyone’s request. This left us with the monumental task of tracking down another allocation, and after months of jockeying, we too, came up empty. That is, until last week...
By complete happenstance, a boutique German importer came to my office and revealed a minuscule lot of 2017 GG “Kirchspiel,” a legendary Grand Cru vineyard in Rheinhessen (also farmed by Keller and Wittmann!). But we soon learned that the producer behind the wine, Groebe, was equally important: They’ve been making wine from iconic sites for over 250 years and even hold an award for “the best white wine in the world.” Yet, they are hardly known in America! Translation: They’re long overdue for a proper welcome, and we cannot wait for you to taste this wine. Groebe’s bone-dry “Kirchspiel” is a stupendously powerful, mineral marvel that’s bottled in the smallest of quantities and distributed around the globe like golden nuggets. For anyone who considers themselves a drinker of fine, über-rare wine, this is an absolute necessity!
For those scratching their head upon seeing Grosses Gewächs, or “GG,” this is the be-all and end-all category for elite German wine. The major rules are that (1) the wines must come from one of Germany’s Grosse Lage (Grand Cru) vineyards; (2) they must be harvested at Spätlese ripeness or above; (3) they must be vinified dry. The world has become enraptured by these texturally rich, exotic, age-worthy gems, and the top bottlings compete for the pinnacle of white wine. As such, securing more than a few cases is the equivalent of finding a needle in a haystack.
As for Groebe’s lack of international presence, I cannot understand why. They’ve been thriving in the famous town of Westhofen since Johann Michael Groebe founded the estate in 1763. Today, they own just nine hectares here, many of which are designated as Grosse Lage (like today’s “Kirchspiel”) and have been in their possession since the beginning. They farm sustainably without any use of herbicides/pesticides (i.e. no chemicals) and harvest everything by hand. For their 2017 “Kirchspiel,” the Riesling was pressed into large, neutral oak barrels and a long, spontaneous fermentation followed. After months of aging in this same barrel, the wine was then bottled and allowed to rest further in their cellar. This tiny parcel just reached America.
Groebe’s 2017 “Kirchspiel” GG reveals a brilliant, deep yellow core with flashes of neon green and silver. When the cork is pulled, the wine doesn’t hesitate to explode with exotic notes of green mango peel, apricot, pineapple, yellow apples, pink grapefruit, tangerine, white peach, candied citrus, Kaffir lime, honeysuckle, petrol, finely crushed stones, acacia, saffron, and beeswax. Despite all there is to love right out of the gates, I strongly urge you to allow a minimum 30-minute decant and to drink slowly in order to unlock the full range of aromatics. My advice? Purchase at least three bottles and open one every 3-5 years because the cellar appeal and chameleonic evolution here is unrivaled. The lush, immensely layered palate presents itself as a full-bodied white bursting with exotic fruit flavor and insane levels of crushed minerality. Mouthwatering acidity only serves to lengthen an already long, savory, crystalline finish—which further speaks to the wine’s aging potential. Like any Grand Cru wine, this should be treated as a delicacy and savored with your closest companions. If this is your first GG experience, I couldn’t be more excited for you. Everyone else? Get ready to enjoy a Riesling powerhouse that sets the bar to lofty new heights. Cheers!
