La Rioja Alta is among the most respected producers in the world, crafting extraordinarily traditional, long-lived wines that are admired by all. But, when it comes to sheer value, nothing competes with their Viña Alberdi label. It’s a truly rare, truly blue-blooded breed that is challenged by no one in the departments of tradition, consistency, and varietal purity.
As for “tradition,” few wineries in Rioja—really, anywhere in the world—continue the kinds of classic practices that are everyday occurrences here. This 2014 Viña Alberdi Reserva (1) comes from sustainably farmed, estate-owned vineyards, (2) ages for two years in American oak crafted by in-house coopers, and (3) is moved from barrel to barrel by candlelight until an unfiltered bottling. This is for the traditionalists, the old-school consumer, and anyone else who loves brilliantly crafted, region-defining wines that consistently rank among the best in their categories. I always have a handful of bottles laying around, and apparently so do the critics: world-renowned Neal Martin says “quite simply, these are some of the finest Riojas that can grace your cellar.” So take my word, his, or anyone else’s—just know you’re in for one of the finest wine values money can buy!
In 1890, five wine-loving families came together and formed a wine society specific to Rioja. Since then, La Rioja Alta has expanded its production to include the Ardanza and Alberdi labels, all while securing old vines from the region’s most exceptional parcels. At home base, they have diligently built an unrivaled in-house cooperage—an expensive, time-consuming feat. Their oak is bought and imported from America and then turned into barrels by their own artisans. Upon completion, each barrel air dries for at least two years before being circulated into wine production. Their cellars now hold a jaw-dropping 30,000 barrels. Just marinate on that for a second: 30,000 barrels. That’s an incredible amount of inventory.
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Today’s 2014 was sourced from four of La Rioja Alta’s 40+-year-old, estate-owned vineyards, all of which are nearing elevations of 2,000 feet. After handpicking and shuttling to their nearby winery in small boxes, grapes were de-stemmed and a natural-yeast fermentation was carried out in stainless steel tanks. The wine underwent two years of aging in American oak—new barrels for the first year and then neutral for the second—and every six months, it was gently racked by candlelight in order to slowly remove sediment and prompt aeration. It was bottled in June of 2017 and then sent to rest in their cool cellars beneath the historic wine town of Haro until deemed ready for commercial release. Essentially, La Rioja Alta does everything in their power to make sure the wine is singing when it hits your doorstep.
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As I’ve previously said, those who have yet to experience the singular magic of La Rioja Alta will be floored upon realizing that this six-year-old Reserva is both their entry-level bottling and current release! In the glass, today’s 2014 Viña Alberdi Reserva reveals a deep ruby core with hints of brick orange creeping in as you move towards the rim. On the nose, it’s a perfect expression of high-altitude Tempranillo from Rioja: at first dominated by red plum and dried cherries, the wine slowly exits its shell and begins releasing beautiful, perfumed notes of exotic spices, sandalwood, redcurrant, balsamic, coconut husk, dill, cedar, dried rose petal, wild herbs, strawberry preserves, coffee beans, and leather. The palate is medium-plus bodied, bright, and full of savory layers of crushed minerality. Fine-grained tannins and wonderfully energetic acidity ensure that the supple wine glides across your tastebuds without any hiccups. This is just a perfect example of world-class Rioja Reserva. After a 30-minute decant, serve in Bordeaux stems around 60 degrees and enjoy your bottle over 3-4 hours. Remember: While the bulk of aging has been done for you, there’s still so much life in this wine—five, even 10 more years isn’t out of the question. Cheers!
