If ever there was a phoenix rising from the ashes of hail-beaten Beaujolais Cru, it would be today’s Fleurie from Château de Grand Pré. Longtime SommSelect subscribers are well aware of these superb, micro-production reds; for the newly acquainted, the Fleurie-based Grand Pré is one of our favorite off-the-beaten-path producers of perfumed, tantalizingly pure Cru Beaujolais.
Sadly, the erratic weather in Beaujolais in recent vintages has hampered our ability to gain decent allocations. Far too many back-to-back harvests have been witness to the same white-knuckle sequence of events: The growing season is merrily chugging along, then black clouds appear in the distance, day turns to night and the passing of one devastating hailstorm reduces crop yields by half, three-quarters, or down to nothing at all. In 2017, however, the oldest Gamay vines planted directly in front of Grand Pré saw their 65th year of life pass with nothing but sunshine—it was a blessing for the owners as yields were normal for the first time in years. As for their 2017 Fleurie, it is a master class in conscientiously farmed, naturally made Cru Beaujolais—vibrantly fresh, high-toned, and in the same vein stylistically as the cult-favorite reds of Jean-Louis Dutraive. Only 35 cases were imported to the US, and aside from a handful of notable Bay Area restaurants, this is the only place you’ll find it. Out-of-this-world fresh and one of the finest Fleurie bottlings of the vintage for just $29—stock up before it’s gone!
Ancient Gamay vines rooted in the pink granite soils of Fleurie, tended by the right producer, deliver some of the prettiest Beaujolais wines I’ve ever had, and are among my all-time favorites from the region. Case in point would be the bright and lifted reds that come from the gnarly old estate Gamay vines of Château de Grand Pré, which are spread out among eight hectares in some of Beaujolais’ highest elevations.
In 1972, Louis and Renée Bertrand took over Château de Grand Pré and its respective vineyards. Their vines are mostly located in the cru villages of Fleurie (where they are headquartered) and neighboring Morgon. After handing the domaine down to their children, Guy and Christine (along with their respective partners), a major push toward environmental care was established. Within the last decade, Louis and Renée’s grandson, Romain, returned to the domaine after working at wineries across the world and started introducing biodynamic farming practices.
Gamay grapes for today’s Fleurie were sourced from a tiny parcel of 30-year-old vines planted directly in front of the château. From one end of the vineyard to the other, bush-trained vines take up an area that spans just under 50 yards. Hand-tended throughout the growing season and farmed today according to biodynamic standards, the grapes are harvested at yields comparable to those of Grand Cru Burgundy (we’re talking around one ton her hectare or the American equivalent of less than half a ton per acre—absurdly low). In the winery, grapes undergo 10-15 days of maceration, are fermented only with native yeasts, then the wine is gently transferred to neutral oak barrels and demi-muids for several months. In 2017, the Fleurie was bottled unfined, unfiltered, and with no sulfite additions.
In the glass, the 2017 Fleurie shows a medium ruby-red core, fading to magenta, with crimson highlights. The wine is full of pure fruit flavors and marked by a structure that would allow this Gamay to age beautifully under proper cellar conditions. There’s a raw quality to the aromas, building from wild strawberries to impressive high-toned perfumed notes, with delicate fresh fruit esters. Medium-plus in body, showing rich, sweet fruit on the palate with accents of wet mushroom and damp cellar and more of this remarkably high-toned and intense perfume. There’s just a kiss of CO2, so I strongly encourage decanting for 30 minutes and pouring into large Burgundy stems served just above cellar temperature. Pair this with roast chicken and potatoes—it’s a great winter wine, that will age easily over the next 3-5 years and is a delicious example of why we love to drink Cru Beaujolais. Seriously—stock up on this!
