When it comes to Easkoot, there’s always a looming “if” involved: Made famous for their tremendous small-batch Pinot Noirs of single-vineyard origin, they’ve generated major excitement among the wine cognoscenti over the last decade—that is,
if you can find a bottle. That’s certainly the case for today’s “Suacci Vineyard,” a hidden-away coastal site that is entirely planted to Pinot Noir. But even if you are lucky enough to stumble across this gem of a site, you may not immediately know what makes it so special. All you need to do is look down: Its ace in the hole is “Goldridge,” about as valuable as gold itself in the world of Calfornia Pinot Noir.
This 3-5-million-year-old, magnesium/calcium/potassium-rich soil yields powerfully concentrated fruit that is worshipped as much as Mosel’s slate, Chablis’ limestone, and Bordeaux’ gravel. And, when you apply sustainable farming, terroir-first winemaking, and five years of total aging, an endlessly aromatic Pinot of pulverized mineral savor and addictively lush fruit emerges. Easkoot’s 2014 has entered the much-desired realm of perfect integration, and it only took one sip for this to leap-frog the “elite” category and land in one of the rarest of all: This is among the finest $30-or-less California Pinot Noirs I’ve ever tasted. And, only a fraction of the original 196-case production remains. From all of us here at SommSelect, Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours!
Captain Alfred Derby Easkoot. What a name, what a pioneer. It was this man who was christened as Marin County’s first land surveyor in the 1800s, and today’s eponymous label is a deferential nod. Easkoot Cellars’ inaugural vintage came in 2009 and over the past decade, the sole focus has been on seeking out prime vineyards along the coast and crafting small-batch, parcel-designated wines.
The 6.5-acre Suacci Vineyard is nestled deep in Sonoma Coast and is just a hair over 10 miles to the ocean. Morning fog, strong sun exposure, large diurnal shifts, and famous Goldrigde soils means one thing: tiny berries and powerful flavor. Since this tiny vineyard was originally planted in 2001, not many producers have been able to get their hands on it, so winemaker Matt Duffy extracts all he can from the few rows bestowed to him. After a meticulous harvest, the ripe grapes naturally fermented (30% whole clusters) before a lengthy aging regimen in 20% new oak from French cooper Marcel Cadet. Total production topped out at 196 cases, or about eight barrels.
Drink this over an evening, and the unmistakable characteristics of classy, complex, cool-climate Pinot Noir will take center stage and steal the show. Like the fog that creeps into this vineyard, the nose slowly rolls out macerated black cherries, black raspberries, damp forest floor, cola nut, just-picked violets, turned soil, blood orange, herbs, piquant baking spices, pomegranate oil, and a delicate touch of rose petals. The palate is rich, exceedingly refreshing, and all about finesse, which is not dissimilar to the delicacy that Chambolle-Musigny brings. After allowing a 30-minute decant, serve this regal, broadly layered Pinot Noir around 60 degrees in your largest Burgundy stems and do not—I repeat, do not—mistake it as an easy quaffer because of its affordable price tag. Easkoot’s 2014 Suacci is a profound, nearly unrivaled value that has only been matched by a few $30-or-less Pinot Noirs throughout my two-decade career. I strongly urge you to take a case because even at five years of age, this brilliant gem is still an ascending star. Cheers!