It’s that time again, when we all look back over a year nearly concluded and reflect on its highlights. Depending on what racket you’re in, that might mean a list of favorite films, restaurants, or in our case, wines: For me, today’s Blaufränkisch from Paul Achs is on my Top Ten List for 2019. 
Why? Well, we’ve just wrapped up a 10-city tour with the USA Today Wine & Food Experience, during which we talked about what it means to “Drink Like a Somm.” We’ve also launched a new club with the same theme, and in a nutshell, it’s about exploring new sensations and recognizing quality and value in wine regardless of where it hails from. Paul Achs is a red wine specialist in a country (Austria) that is much more famous for its whites, but if he and some of his neighbors in the Burgenland keep releasing stunners like today’s 2016 “Ried Edelgrund,” that may change. Blaufränkisch from Burgenland is catnip to intrepid sommeliers: It’s well outside the mainstream (meaning it’s under-valued); it’s a taste sensation unlike any other (there’s no simple analog to describe it); and its best producers, like Achs, also happen to be heavily invested in sustainability (he farms biodynamically). “Ried Edelgrund” is a precision-crafted single-vineyard red that is rich, refined, inky, fresh, fruity, and savory all at once. The few wines I can think of that come close to it at $29 are likely on my Top Ten List, too!
There’s always a satisfyingly deep, purplish hue to most Blaufränkisch reds (blau means “blue” in German and many wines from the grape are downright inky) but not typically much tannin. Like a lot of Germanic reds, they look in the glass as if they’re going to be massive wines, but are the opposite on the palate: brisk, medium-weight, darkly-fruited reds that are profound yet accessible when young. Today’s ’16 fits that bill perfectly, with an extra dose of refinement to boot: In the glass, it’s an inky purple-ruby with magenta highlights, exploding with scents of ripe black plums, black raspberries, cranberries, pomegranate, violets, herbs and spices, orange zest, black pepper, tar and forest floor. It is medium-bodied, with a more silken texture than many of the meatier, more rustic styles of Blaufränkisch you’ll encounter, and it will delight anyone who likes Cru Beaujolais, Northern Rhône wines, northeastern Italian reds, and some of the spicy reds of Spain’s Galicia. Really, there’s something for everyone here: Decant it 30 minutes before serving in Burgundy stems with an old-school goulash. You will be so, so glad you did! Cheers!