I didn’t think Barolo wines like this existed anymore: given the relatively small production quantities, the meteoric rise in its popularity, and the investment-grade quality of the wines, I thought prices in the $40s were a thing of the past. Nadia Curto, and her thrilling 2015 “La Foia,” proved me wrong (not that I wanted to be right).
Working with just a few hectares of organically farmed, family-heirloom vineyards in the hamlet of La Morra, Nadia has re-affirmed a few things: (1) artisanal Barolo is still perhaps the greatest value in the world of fine, cellar-worthy red wine; and (2) the 2015 vintage is the rare one in Barolo offering both immediate enjoyment and long-term promise. Tasting this lush, seductive, unquestionably “La Morra” Barolo—this village is known for the most perfumed, finessed wines in the appellation—I couldn’t help but think of some of the stunningly well-priced ‘grower’ Champagnes we offer around here. The same “shock and awe” takes hold of me: I’m shocked by how low the price is for a wine that is this awesome—there’s so much more-expensive wine out there that doesn’t even come close! Equally exciting for us is that SommSelect is one of the few places you can find it, so you know what to do…pounce!
Please also note that this isn’t some upstart label with no track record. Nadia’s father, Marco, long sold fruit from his well-placed vineyards to others. The family’s holdings include a parcel in the Grand Cru-equivalent “Arborina” vineyard, a site which is also farmed by her legendary uncle, Elio Altare (among others). After seizing the opportunity to apprentice with Altare—who, like many grand old men of Barolo, has handed the reins over to daughters, not sons—Nadia convinced eighty-something Marco to begin estate-bottling. Her approach in both the vineyards and the cellar is resolutely natural and traditional, with organic certification pending for the vineyards and only used, large-format barrels in the cellar. She uses only ambient yeasts to initiate fermentations and endeavors to use as little sulfur as possible, adding the minimum-possible amount only at bottling.
“La Foia” means “leaf” in Piedmontese dialect, and is the name of the estate’s ‘base’ Barolo bottling (they also bottle a single-vineyard wine from Arborina). It is aged for more than 24 months in botti (large barrels) of 25- and 30-hectoliter capacity, bottled unfined and unfiltered, then aged 12 months in bottle before release.
Like many of the other 2015s we’ve showcased so far, the 2015 La Foia is distinguished by relatively gentle tannins and a feeling of completeness at what is considered a “young” stage in its life. Its impeccable balance and aroma-enhancing freshness is what will preserve it over the longer term—it’s not a 30-year wine (or vintage), but the next 10-15 are going to be magnificent. In the glass, it’s a deep garnet-red moving to pink and orange at the rim, with a bursting bouquet of flowers, fruit, and earth: cherry kirsch, juicy red currant, blood orange, wet rose petals, violets, sandalwood, grilled herbs, leather, and woodsy underbrush. Medium-plus in body and lushly textured (by Nebbiolo standards), it has a bright, “Burgundian” personality that begins to really pour forth after 30 minutes or so in a decanter. If I were asked to open what I consider to be a “textbook” La Morra Barolo, I’d eagerly reach for this one—which shouldn’t be surprising given Uncle Elio’s expertise in this area. Serve La Foia at 60 degrees in large Burgundy stems and pair its aromatic charms with an herb-crusted pork loin drizzled with pan gravy. (PS: This would also be a stellar Thanksgiving wine). Do yourself a favor, too, and stock up—one bottle is not going to be enough!
