It often feels as if there’s no such thing as consensus in the wine business. As in our national and global political discourse, many wine enthusiasts often self-assign to tribes. Some swear by the richness of young Napa reds, while others the savor and elegance of mature Bordeaux. Many experienced sommeliers worship the refined, technical brilliance of Austrian Grüner or German Riesling, while an increasingly large and vocal contingent demand the let-it-all-hang-out rawness of totally unfiltered, unsulfured, zero-additive “natural” wines. I bring this up because today’s wine, the 2015 Unturned Stone “Spider Chase,” is the rare wine that appeals to virtually all disparate factions of the wine world. This bottle sneaks on to “Napa-only” wine lists here in California, it’s a perennial favorite for Michelin-starred restaurants in San Francisco, and—due to painstaking organic farming, native yeast fermentation, and judicious sulfite additions—it’s also the rare domestic Bordeaux blend that you’ll find on the chalkboard at the coolest natural wine bars. All this, combined with an absurdly fair price given the elite zip code of origin, means that today’s wine has become one of the hottest bottles in contemporary California wine.

 

Unturned Stone is the pride and joy of husband and wife team Erin Mitchell and Randall Czech. As the go-to wholesale maven in Sonoma and SF for those looking to acquire rare gems like Chave Hermitage, Ulysse Collin Champagne, De Moor Chablis or Envinate, Erin has a wealth of experience as a taster and local “public face” of many of the world’s top wines. Randall’s deep history in the vines and cellars of top Pinot Noir powerhouses like Failla and Flowers speaks for itself. This impressive combination of “right and left brain” wine talent is evident in every sip of today’s wine, but it’s not the whole story. Thanks to this couple’s enduring partnership with two of West Sonoma's hardest working, salt-of-the-earth farmers, Jesus Velazquez and Patricia Greer, today’s wine is the product of a truly spectacular vineyard site. If you want to do a deep dive, check out this great article Esther Mobley wrote about it. Or, take my word that Waterhorse Ridge is one of the more enchanted small vineyards in the region. Volcanic terroir, a freak microclimate, and obsessive hand-farming all come together to create something perfectly balanced, deeply soulful, and spectacular. I taste the microscopic scale (160 cases) and extreme attention to detail in every ounce of this vintage. It’s a layered, sophisticated, singular wine, one that can only be produced at the Waterhorse Ridge vineyard.

 

Once in the glass, the 2015 Unturned Stone “Spider Chase” announces itself as a deeply classic and sophisticated Bordeaux blend. There’s a distinct cedar/forest/tobacco aromatic character that recalls the most memorable bottles of 1980s Caymus and/or older Spottswoode I’ve been fortunate to taste over the years. Add to that a powerful core of wet stone, judiciously ripened dark plum/berry fruit, and a strong current of mouthwatering minerality that panders to my personal affinity for Saumur-Champigny and old-school Saint-Émilion. The way this wine's softer fruit elements wrap around its more “intellectual” mineral components puts it in pretty elite company. Of course, there’s a clear sense of California warmth, but everything is infused with terroir.

 

The one final point I want to make is about the undeniable value here. To find a bottling with equivalent quality/style/scale elsewhere in Sonoma or Napa (let alone Bordeaux), you’re going to be spending much more. Try to match the immaculate farming and nearly four years in barrel and bottle behind this wine, and the price tag will likely escalate significantly from there. Keep in mind that many top-tier bottles from this small, exclusive AVA retail for $100-$200 per bottle—and that’s if you can find them!  So, please do yourself a favor and grab a few bottles for your cellar. I speak from recent experience with past vintages in saying that this wine ages beautifully and will be absolutely singing in 3-5 years. Furthermore, this is a wine whose demand and price increase every year like clockwork, so the investment value is undeniable. Still, if you simply wish to enjoy a few bottles today, keep it simple by decanting for 30 minutes, and serving at 55-60 degrees in large Bordeaux stems alongside a platter of roasted lamb chops and herbed new potatoes. Cheers!