Though just a few years on the scene, Powell & Son have amassed dangerously high scores and sing-from-the-mountaintop critical praise that most producers only dream about. This is far from beginner’s luck: In the early 90s, legendary David Powell founded Torbreck and launched it into international stardom, leading Robert Parker to label it one of the “World\'s Top 100 Wine Estates.” All this, it seems, was just the massive buildup for his next reveal.
In 2014, David and his son, a devout understudy of the Jean-Louis Chave, began creating extraordinary small-batch Syrahs under the Powell & Son label. Their rise was meteoric. In record time, every reliable critic worth their salt idolized these elegantly spun, terroir-driven reds—from today’s Barossa/Eden Valley blend to their flagship single-vineyard bottlings, which come in at a staggering $600! Bottom line, Powell is a master of Aussie Syrah/Shiraz, and if you were to pour this wine in a blind tasting alongside the culty elites of Penfold’s “Grange,” Henschke’s “Hill of Grace” and Torbreck’s “RunRig,” it wouldn’t be out of place. The wine is simply that sensational. If this name isn’t yet rapidly flashing on your radar, you’re running out of time: Only two barrels of today’s masterful Syrah blend were produced (one from Barossa, the other from Eden), and the dwindling inventory won’t last much longer. Powell & Son has mounted the world stage and is making a beeline for the podium. Once that happens, you can kiss our allocation and this affordable price goodbye.
You don’t have to look far to see that Torbreck garners some of the greatest critical acclaim of any producer in Australia which thusly extends to all other legitimate winemaking countries. A former lumberjack, David Powell set out to craft world-class wines (and achieved it) from the get-go, and with it came prized vineyards and myriad grower-winemaker friendships. His bloated Rolodex confirms his decades of experience, of which he fully put to use when launching Powell & Son several years ago.
\r\n
\r\n
David and his son, Callum, specifically focus their work in the valleys of Barossa and Eden. These historic regions are home to seriously ancient vines—many are well beyond the century mark—that have been scrapped over by high-profile names for decades. Many of the sites selected and cultivated by David are the same ones he injected life back into years ago, so, to him, it’s more than a vine producing grapes. He’s watched them grow up right before his eyes!
\r\n
\r\n
While their premium lineup flaunts the allure of single-vineyard, terroir-specific wines, today’s skillful blend harnesses the power of their two specialties: the Barossa and Eden Valleys. The Barossa Syrah comes from 60-year-old vines and the Eden Syrah from 40+, both of which are entirely farmed by hand. The grapes fermented separately in concrete vessels before each valley-specific wine was transferred into two massive 4500-liter French foudres. After 15 months, the two barrels were married and today’s stunning creation was born. Bottling occurred without filtration.
\r\n
\r\n
While their top-of-the-line reds are fetching near-perfect scores and prices that make Chave Hermitage look affordable, critics can’t stop talking about the sheer value and pleasure that today’s dual-valley blend brings. It exudes deep, authentic, soil-expressive notes of Syrah all while retaining classic Aussie descriptors: It’s richly layered, brooding, and velvety, exploding with black-blue fruits and a tantalizing mixture of wildflowers and spice. Like the greats of Hermitage, this is a textural masterpiece that doesn’t demand the limelight: It’s soulful, silken mouthfeel steadily builds into a finessed, full-bodied wine that refuses to bludgeon you over the head with oak and extract. Powell & Son’s 2016 Barossa & Eden Valleys Shiraz slowly pings every taste bud with muddled black cherries, blueberries, and black raspberry liqueur before revealing a vivid mosaic of garrigue, licorice, candied violets, lavender, black tea, cacao, olive, cloves, pepper, smoke, and eucalyptus. There\'s no denying the massive, lingering power here—it sports endless layers of dark-fruited polish that keep building thanks to ultra-savory notes and soft-shouldered tannin. What a wine! It’ll age incredibly well too: While a show-stopper right now, this has the muscle and endurance to reach 2030 and beyond. If consuming in the near future, decant for 60 minutes and enjoy in Bordeaux stems around 60 degrees. If it’s an epic dinner party you’re after, serve this alongside the attached braised lamb shoulder recipe. Enjoy!
