The term “vieille vigne” (‘old vine’) means different things to different people, but Jean-Marie Fourrier’s vineyards in Burgundy would meet anyone’s age baseline—the vineyard sources for this wine range in age from 60-100 years, and Fourrier has made heirloom vines the central focus of his enterprise. Since taking over the domaine in 1994, Jean-Marie has turned it into one of Burgundy’s most sought-after labels, to the point where most US restaurants and retailers receive allocations in eyedropper quantities. Overall, Fourrier farms nine hectares of vineyards in Gevrey-Chambertin, Morey-St-Denis, Chambolle-Musigny, and Vougeot. His decisions both in the field and the cellar are informed at least in part by his apprenticeship with the Godfather of modern Burgundy, Henri Jayer, back before he took over the family property. This is some of the sleekest, most opulent red Burgundy one can hope to own, period.