Load up your cart, keep moving forward, and above all, don’t look back: When it comes to the magnetic allure of ancient Tokaj and the resurgence of its passionate, independent growers, there’s not much time left before growing demand overwhelms this value-packed region. It seems that a new producer quietly slips onto the scene each year and emerges with a dry, energizing, fully-flavored wine that causes insiders and sommeliers to weaken at the knees.
That’s why we’re enraptured by Bodrog Borműhely’s single-vineyard dry Furmint: It is a dazzling, perfectly sculpted creation that captures Tokaj’s ancient volcanic soils and the intricate flavors imparted by an upbringing in Hungarian oak. Imagine the convergence of great dry Riesling, top quality Loire Valley Chenin, and Grand Cru Chablis and you’ll be dangerously close to uncovering the chameleonic complexities of today’s dry Furmint. Above all, these enchanting gems forge their own olfactory and gustatory path, so for anyone who is prepared to experience something profound and wholly unique, let this be your off-the-beaten-path purchase. Note: In 2016, Bodrog Borműhely only farmed .7 hectares from the Lapis vineyard (considered a Grand Cru of Tokaj) which means the iota of wine that was bottled must be scrapped over—good luck!
After the fall of communism, the government’s stranglehold on winemaking and trade was relinquished and the new generation began a complete overhaul. Without these shackles, independent wine labels begin popping up and quality soared. Enter János Hajduz and Krisztián Farka, the proprietors of Bodrog Borműhely. They naturally farm small plots throughout their locality and raise their micro-batch wines in traditional local oak, ensuring that the true colors of Tokaj and its inimitable Furmint grape shine.
The winding Bodrog River snakes through Tokaj and that’s where you’ll find a handful of top-performing vineyard sites running alongside it. Because today’s “Lapis” vineyard lies extremely close to the river and its respective floodplains, the vines are susceptible to extra moisture, so finding the perfect slice of land here is key. János and Krisztián did just that: At a mere .7 hectares, their prime parcel lies higher up in the sprawling vineyard and enjoys steady wind flow to keep the clusters dry.
They farm their tiny piece of land organically and harvest is carried out by hand. After a careful sorting both in the vineyard and back at the winery, the grapes are gently pressed and, after 24 hours, are sent into neutral Szerednyei, which are 220-liter Hungarian oak barrels that take their name from a historic town. From here, the juice is allowed to naturally ferment (including malo) at its own pace. Throughout nine months of aging in these special barrels, a lees-stirring regimen is carried out. The wines are lightly filtered before bottling.
Even if you skip a brief decant, Bodrog Borműhely’s 2016 “Lapis” Furmint isn’t shy: Intoxicating aromatics of honeysuckle, yellow apricot, beeswax, orange blossoms, apricot, yellow apple skin, pink grapefruit, pulverized rock, and sweet spices fill the senses and each vivid note seamlessly transfers onto the richly layered palate. Furmint’s Chenin Blanc-like acidity is on full display here, but ripe fruit and a dazzling concoction of savory components keep it in “mouthwatering” territory. Its multiple layers of ripe fruit and savory minerality are quite addicting, all the more so when oxygen is introduced. Further, these wines can sneakily age! Our friend who imports this will be the first to say he’s had extraordinary bottles of dry Furmint at 5, 10, even 15 years of age, so however long you want to hold onto it is entirely up to you. If consuming in the near future, do so around 50-55 degrees and match it with a local specialty. Cheers!
