We like to dispel people of the notion that Burgundy doesn’t hold value these days. It is still there for the taking if you’re not honor-bound to Premier or Grand Crus. But for those who are committed to the best, or simply would like to experience one of these elite bottlings without sacrificing a hefty sum, the searching game becomes ruthless real quick. That’s why we’ve logged miles in the Côte d’Or, rapped on doors, and tasted countless wines: If you want Premier Cru red Burgundy for a fair price, it’s not going to magically appear on your desk—or so we thought.
Today’s wine from Edmond Monnot hails from a century-old, family-run Burgundy estate known for crafting small batches of elegant Premier Cru stunners. And, as fate would have it, their importer dropped this one on my desk with a wide grin. He’d been stashing it away for years, waiting for it to hit its prime drinking window. He was spot-on: Monnot’s 2012 “Le Clos des Loyères” is a brilliant, finessed, unabashedly delicious Premier Cru Burgundy at a Bourgogne Rouge-level price. The Monnot family only holds one hectare of 50-year-old vines in this special site and what little they do bottle is made slowly and traditionally in their gravity-flow winery. Once it’s finally bottled, more than 85% of the production stays in Europe, with the remaining 15% distributed throughout the world. Think you’ll see another legitimate, blue-chip, Premier Cru Burgundy for $35 anytime soon? Our magic ball reads “highly unlikely.”
Although Edmond Monnot retired after a long career of winemaking in 2007, his sons were there to take the reins, making the transition seamless. Dating to 1920, the domaine owns just over nine hectares of prime vineyards, two-thirds of which are Premier Cru. When the Côte de Beaune comes to mind, you first think of world-class whites, while for reds, Volnay or Pommard undoubtedly enter the conversation. But the wines from the village of Maranges, the most southern tip of the Côte de Beaune, are still relatively unfamiliar to the U.S. market (maybe to our benefit), allowing for a price-to-quality ratio that is nearly unrivaled in Burgundy.
“Le Clos des Loyères” is a highly sought-after vineyard for local winemakers, which is why the Monnots only possess one hectare of vines here. The soil is the classic clay-limestone blend, rich in minerals, and their 45+-year-old vines are tended in lutte raisonnée fashion—they are adamant about leaving them untouched unless absolutely necessary. All fruit is hand-harvested and multi-sorted in the winery. After a three-week maceration (with the occasional punch-down), the wine is transferred via gravity into French Allier oak, 20% new, for 12 months. The wine then sees an additional six months in stainless steel vats before being bottled unfiltered.
In the glass, Monnot’s 2012 “Le Clos des Loyères” reveals a concentrated ruby core moving out to a faded garnet on the rim. The nose is sublime, exuding classic notes of mature, old-school Burgundy: dried Bing cherry, black raspberry, rose petal, ripe red plums, forest flora, damp underbrush, button mushroom, tea leaves, vintage leather, dried orange peel. The palate is supple and beautifully rounded with plump red/black fruits and a savory blend of herbal earthiness and exotic spices. As mentioned, it’s firing on all cylinders right now and won’t be missing a revolution for another 3-5 years. I recommend popping the cork 15-30 minutes before serving at 60 degrees in large Burgundy stems and savoring over several hours. Above all, let’s not forget that this is genuine Premier Cru Burgundy from a noble terroir and a family trained in tradition; it’s one of life’s (few remaining) affordable pleasures. Cheers!
