We pride ourselves on putting a lot of thought into our daily offers. But today’s selection required little contemplation or discussion: If you taste a wine blind and think it’s Puligny or Meursault, only to find out that it’s a very modestly priced Bourgogne Blanc, you buy it. It’s simple, really.
I love choosing wines this way: it’s all about what’s in the bottle, not what’s on the label, although I should note that this label includes the word monopole—meaning that it comes from a single vineyard, “Clos de la Carbonade,” that is solely owned by Domaine Borgeot. It isn’t just any old Bourgogne Blanc, not by a long shot, which is easily confirmed on your first sip: the texture and tension of serious Burgundian Chardonnay is there in abundance. Having offered wines from Borgeot previously, including a stunning ’17 from the “Les Grands Champs” vineyard in Puligny-Montrachet, we knew they had an especially deft hand with whites. They also have a special vineyard on their hands in Clos de la Carbonade, and it shows. At this price, as I said above, it’s a no-brainer “buy” for shrewd Burgundy hunters. I advise blind-tasting your most knowledgeable friends and ask them to guess the price! This wine will make for an incredible conversation and glass alike.
After a frost-shortened harvest in 2016 (some producers lost 80% of their crop), 2017 was relatively drama-free and appreciate for both its quality and quantity. Borgeot’s ’17 is showing impressive ripeness and accessibility right out of the gate, along with loads of tension. It’s an impressive high-wire act: In the glass, it’s a deep yellow-gold with flecks of straw and green, offering up inviting aromas of green and yellow apple, nectarine, lemon zest, fresh cream, white flowers, and wet rocks. It is medium-plus in body, nicely palate coating and substantial, with a bright wave of acidity giving you a playful slap in the face to get your attention. It checks all the boxes for those who, like me, love white Burgundy: persistence on the palate, viscosity, and freshness are all there. Decant it 15-30 minutes if serving now and give it some air in a Burgundy stem, or lay it down for 3-5 years and watch its price-to-quality ratio soar completely off the charts. Try the “one-pot” chicken preparation attached, which is fleshed out with a lemon-garlic cream sauce. It could have been custom-designed for this wine. Enjoy!