What you see in front of you today is more than an esoteric wine nestled high up in the tiny Alpine corner of Italy known as the Vallée d’Aoste. It comes from an emerging producer, just five years on the scene, who’s already poised to become one of the next
garagiste superstars of Italy. Production numbers are extraordinarily tiny, there’s a “culty” feel to the wines, and the drinking experience they provide is something entirely unique and memorable. None of this is hyperbole, and we’ll happily go into detail to prove it.
Laurent Cunéaz and his brother, André, of Cave Gargantua only make a few hundred cases of wine per year; roughly a fifth of that is today’s “Labié.” Although their first vintage was 2014, these wines have the “it” factor, and today’s Torrette Supérieur is destined for greatness. Sourced from old-vine parcels planted to the region’s eclectic mix of indigenous grapes, it’s a gargantuan blend that delivers an inimitable mix of dark forest berries, mountain herbs, and stone-ground minerality. Save for a few cases that made their way into some San Francisco restaurants, we were given access to the entire allocation for the American market, which amounts to less than 20 cases. This is a must-try, not just for its certain fame on the near horizon, but also for the sheer pleasure each sip brings. Only six per person today, and you’ll have to get in line behind me!
It's worth repeating that when you encounter wines from the Vallée d’Aoste (Valle d’Aosta in Italian), you’re experiencing a (viti)cultural convergence of French, Italian, and Swiss wine traditions. French, and a local patois that skews heavily French, is the main language here. As such the labels on bottles can get confusing—typically you’ll see both Italian and French used simultaneously, much as it is on street signs, etc. in the region.
Laurent Cunéaz’s passion for the vine was triggered by working the high-altitude vineyards of Vallée d’Aoste with his grandfather. This desire led him to a winemaking position at the Institut Agricole Régional, an agricultural school that has propelled many local vintners to global recognition. In 2013, Laurent Cunéaz left his position here in order to start his own path at Cave Gargantua. If the Cunéaz surname looks familiar, you’ve got quite a keen eye. Laurent’s winery is only 1,000 feet from Cantina di Cunéaz Nadir (a SommSelect favorite), but, somehow, there’s no familial relation!
Laurent is headquartered in the Aosta Valley subzone of Torrette (in the village of Gressan, where vineyards often climb to 800+ meters). Vines here occupy terraces and slopes along the Dora Baltea River and are among the highest elevation sites in Europe. Although there’s ample water in the form of mountain runoff (surging through Roman-era aqueducts that criss-cross the valley), Mont Blanc provides a “rain shadow” effect not unlike the one Alsace sees from its nearby Vosges range. Summers up here are drier and warmer than you might expect, although the diurnal swings—daytime heat spikes followed by cool nights—are extreme.
To qualify for the Torrette Supérieur DOC, the Petit Rouge grape must comprise a minimum of 70% of the blend. Laurent, with just five acres of vines, incorporates 75%, rounding out the rest with two other indigenous grapes: Fumin and Vien de Nus. Attaching “Supérieur” to Torrette also means the wine must hit a higher alcohol threshold and age longer, which Laurent easily achieves. After hand-harvesting the crop, this full-bodied, yet wonderfully graceful, wine aged for 12 months in 1,500-liter wooden vats. It was then transferred into stainless steel tanks for several months (for further settling and refinement) before bottling.
Laurent’s 2017 Cave Gargantua “Labié” displays an inky ruby-purple core that saturates the glass with intense concentration. A vibrant magenta around the rim makes the wine visually pop, but that’s the last thing your mind will be focused on: An intoxicating cascade of black, red, and blue forest berries roar out of the glass, quickly accompanied by an alluring mix of cracked pepper, violets, and pine needles. On the palate, a star-studded cast of soft tannins, vibrant freshness, and plush textures make this a luxurious, intricately detailed red that is wholly unique. Notes of Kirsch, Chambord, and hints of fresh blueberry linger on the finish before giving way to crunchy minerals and underbrush dusted with black pepper. It’s an utterly delicious, full-bodied wine that remains fresh and poised throughout. Because of that, I recommend serving in Burgundy stems after a brief decant. Experiencing this wine will open up a portal—one that will reshape perspectives about Aosta and Italian wine as a whole. Don’t miss it!
