Deep in the heart of Portugal’s Bairrada region, Caves São João’s cellar holds a breathtaking collection of library bottles dating back to the 1950s that were purposely hidden away—until recently. In 2013, the world finally caught a glimpse of them: The owners, resolute in holding back the lion’s share, finally decided to reveal their perfectly preserved wine antiques to the public in small waves. Since that time, only a lucky few have discovered these gems, yet all have learned of the fascinating, subtly complex allure of mature Bairrada.
Today’s 1985 Frei João Tinto couldn’t encapsulate that statement more: It is graceful, wildly perfumed, and built with a sturdy foundation that has effortlessly seen it through three decades and counting. For the many who have never tasted Baga, the signature grape of Bairrada, it’d be hard not to feel spoiled by today’s library release offer—it’s rare, wonderfully affordable, and an exemplar of world-class, mature red wine. And for the few that have had the opportunity to taste Baga—often referred to by experts as the “Nebbiolo of Portugal”—this perfectly cellared gem will shatter your already-high expectations. Less than 400 cases were originally produced, so grab yours now and run for the hills to avoid the inevitable brawl for the last few bottles!
Caves São João was originally founded as a traditional Port wine house in 1920, but when geographical boundaries were formed that defined where Port could be made, their production shifted to the polar opposite: sparkling wine. Over the years, they became a flagship producer for Portuguese sparkling and the revenue this generated allowed them to branch out into still wines of various styles. As Caves São João built their brand, they started acquiring other small, tradition-minded estates and exploring new regions.
Enter Frei João: Established in the 1950s, this was Caves São João’s answer to producing high-quality wines from the region of Bairrada. Over time, they amassed a tremendous collection that has been perfectly stored in their cavernous cellar. When Baga and other red Portuguese wines fell out of popularity, Caves São João kept on cellaring, and, lo and behold, there is once again a growing movement for their elegant, traditionally crafted wines. Today, they remain the only Portuguese winery selling library release wines of this age to the public.
Baga is one of those unique varieties that has remained a well-guarded secret by those in the know. It is the signature red grape of the Bairrada DOC, an appellation in northern Portugal that reaches toward the Atlantic coast. Soil here is largely clay (Bairrada translates into “place of clay”) and with the proximity to the Atlantic Ocean, there is a significant maritime influence here. Both factors combine to create perfect conditions for the unforgiving Baga grape. Because Caves São João has long-standing relationships with the grape farmers of Bairrada, and they’ve consistently paid them on time, they have ‘first dibs’ on the region’s best Baga every year! In 1985, premium grapes from Bairrada were purchased by Caves São João and were shuttled to their nearby cellar. After an open-top fermentation for several weeks, the wine was transferred into concrete vessels for 24 months. It was bottled in early 1988, where it laid to rest for 30 uninterrupted years in their cellar.
In the glass, Frei João’s 1985 Bairrada pours a garnet moving out to a hazy brick orange rim. While it’s certainly not necessary to decant, a 34-year-old wine is going to cast some sediment! So, for those who want to avoid the brunt of it, stand this bottle upright as long as possible (days, even weeks) before pulling the cork. We opted for a delicate pour straight into the glass in order to best preserve and savor the decades-old aromas. Dried black cherries, currants, plums, vintage leather, sandalwood, damp forest flora, rose petals, and sun-dried herbs emerge from the glass in delicate fashion. On the nose and palate, it’s impossible to think this is anything other than a mature ‘Old World’ wine. Nailing the country, however, is the hard part. It pulls traits from all the classic regions—Bordeaux, Piedmont, Rioja—yet it remains wholly unique. On the palate, the wine shows amazing lift and freshness that makes the mature fruits pop with energy, but it’s the interplay of savory earth and minerality that takes center stage. Buttressed by a firm tannic backbone, the wine enjoys a long, thought-provoking finish that endlessly lingers. I recommend pouring the ‘85 directly into large Burgundy stems and consuming over a two-hour window—it’s best to drink before exposing to excess oxygen. Still, there’s no rush to pull the cork! It has another 10 years, should you keep it stored in a cool, dark, undisturbed part of your house. Cheers!
