The 2014 vintage in Burgundy was a difficult one for
vignerons, who had to contend with some nasty hailstorms that cut deeply into production size, but while quantity suffered, quality did not—especially for red wines. In fact, 2014 red Burgundies have been the gift that keeps on giving these past few years, delivering considerable pleasure now but clearly built for aging as well.
That’s a ‘win-win’ in my book and, as time passes, each 2014 we encounter is more thrilling than the last. This was most definitely the case with today’s Morey-Saint-Denis Premier Cru from the resurgent Domaine Taupenot-Merme. Given the small production totals in 2014, many growers chose to combine their Premier Cru sites into a single blend rather than releasing them separately, making today’s “La Riotte” all the more exciting for its rarity as well as its quality. Then there’s the value proposition here: Yes, it has crept into the triple-digits, but just barely, and its level of polish and breed is so high it feels like a steal anyway. This is incredibly serious, cellar-worthy Burgundy entering perfect maturity, made by a legacy domaine blessed with incredible vineyard holdings. We can offer up to four bottles per person today until our small allocation disappears, and I’d strongly advise taking your limit: Once you’ve tried it, four is not going to be anywhere near enough!
Taupenot-Merme is the product of a very Burgundian love story. Jean Taupenot and Denise Merme founded the Domaine after their marriage in 1963. Both have winemaking running through their veins—the Taupenot family since the 1700s and the Merme side even earlier. For many years Taupenot-Merme operated out of two separate estates simultaneously, one from each side of the family. But Jean and Denise’s son Romain took over in 1998 and promptly consolidated the two. Romain is famously soft-spoken but single-minded in his dedication to crafting pure, unadulterated red Burgundy. He works closely with his sister, Virginie, who helps run the estate.
Romain amassed a wealth of knowledge throughout his childhood and refused to miss a harvest during his decade-long career in finance. He is very much a vineyard man, drawing on his hereditary knowledge to preserve his family’s key philosophies while maintaining an uncompromising eye on the future. Over three years Romain fully converted the estate to organic viticulture, although he’s never pursued certification. He continues to practice a very hands-off style of winemaking, and prefers gentle extractions to create wines of great finesse and lift.
The estate is based in Morey-Saint-Denis, but Taupenot-Merme has a remarkable diversity of vineyard holdings: 13 hectares cleverly acquired throughout 20 appellations on the Côte d’Or. They’ve got envy-inducing plots of old vines in Gevrey-Chambertin, Chambolle-Musigny, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Corton, Auxey-Duresses, and Saint-Romain. “La Riotte” is one of 20 Premier Crus in tiny Morey-Saint-Denis. It’s located a short walk from their Grand Cru holdings in “Clos de Lambrays’”—just across the Route des Grands Crus and through the village itself. La Riotte is a scant half-acre planted with 60+-year-old Pinot Noir. Romain preserves this specific climat’s impressive aromatics with the gentlest élevage possible: ambient yeast fermentation, approximately 30% new oak, aging for 12-14 months, no racking, and finally, three months in stainless steel tanks before bottling unfined and unfiltered.
It’s a beautiful bright ruby in the glass, softening to light purple at the rim. There’s a very expressive bouquet of newly turned earth, bergamot tea, licorice, and pressed flowers. It honestly makes your mouth water before you even bring it to your lips. Don’t forget that Morey-Saint-Denis is a concentrated, energetic wine with remarkable longevity. This 2014 is really beginning to blossom after five years of rest—unfurling a rich spiciness if you let it sit in Burgundy stems for a few minutes before sipping. Make sure you’re not serving it too warm: 60-65 degrees will be perfect. The palate is superbly balanced by silky tannins and bright acidity, with the elegance and floral lift typical of Morey-Saint-Denis. On the palate it’s all cherry, mushroom, and roses.
Get out of the box with your food pairings. This wine will be at home with strong flavors so don’t be shy to visit your local butcher and ask what game they have. Meanwhile, a great vegetarian pairing would make use of all the summer veggies beginning to show up at farmer markets: think a ratatouille tart covered in crumbled feta. There’s honestly no wrong way to drink this spectacular Premier Cru, as long as you’re drinking it—be it now or 10 years from now, it’s a prestige Burgundy you won’t soon forget!
