Francis recognizes that his small-production Pouilly-Fumé is highly sought-after (his front door is imprinted by the knuckles of a thousand importers), so you’d expect one of two outcomes: an increase in production or ramped-up prices. Some producers get away with both, but Francis hasn’t done either, and, as we’ve mentioned before, the quality of each new release seems to reach unprecedented levels. It’s a traditionally crafted, extremely affordable, must-have ‘collectible’ for anyone who admires terroir, purity, and the value of a dollar. 

Francis Blanchet has an only-in-France pedigree: his extended family has been growing Sauvignon Blanc in Pouilly-Fumé since the 1700s (they are said to still have the original deed for the purchase of the vineyards). Today, Francis still remains active, but his son Mathieu has joined the ranks, representing the eighth generation. Despite their history, the estate remains rather modest in size at around 23 acres. That’s it. Today’s “Kriotine” (a play on the French word criots, which refers to a terroir covered in white stones), hails from a single, 1.7-hectare vineyard that was originally owned by Francis’ grandparents. 

The fruit is hand-harvested and fermented using only ambient yeasts in stainless steel. Afterward, the resulting wine ages in tank for approximately six months, where it initially undergoes a bâtonnage (lees-stirring) regimen. It is then quickly bottled to preserve the freshness and strong mineral imprint. Whereas “Cuvée Silice” typically shows a nervy, edgy side in its youth, “Kriotine” reveals more broadness and juicy layers with less mineral nerve. If this is what 2018 Loire Valley has in store, my goodness, we cannot wait for more to roll out! Its highly reflective, straw-yellow core bursts forward with white peach, Asian pear, grapefruit, white peach, gooseberry, mango, salted Meyer lemon, oyster shell, acacia, and finely crushed stones that prickle with enlivening acidity. Again, the vintage brings some viscosity to the palate, delivering layers of ripe, rounded fruits leading to a deeply mineral finish. When consuming, simply pull the cork 30-60 minutes beforehand (or decant for 15 minutes) then serve in all-purpose white stems around 50 degrees. If you haven’t yet had a Pouilly-Fumé—or a Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc, for that matter—that made you say “wow,” I suspect Blanchet’s 2018 “Kriotine” will change that. For one occasion, I recommend gathering a few friends for a late brunch, opening a few bottles, and preparing the attached smoked salmon and goat cheese quiche recipe. Enjoy!