People are flocking to Spain’s rugged Galicia region, and it’s not just religious pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela: It’s sommeliers and winemakers and anyone else for whom wine is a religion, because the assorted appellations of Spain’s northwestern corner—Rías Baixas, Ribeira Sacra, and today’s destination, Ribeiro (among others)—are among the most dynamic in the world right now.
For one thing, most of them do white and red wine equally well, be it a salty Albariño from the coastal vineyards of Rías Baixas; a brightly fruited and mineral-rich Mencía from the heights of Ribeira Sacra; or, in today’s case, a Treixadura-based white blend that perfectly captures the cool, verdant, mountainous river valley that is Ribeiro. The word
ribeiro is Portuguese for ‘brook,’ or ‘stream,’ and it’s an apt name for a wine region traversed by three dramatic river valleys that snake their way toward the Atlantic Ocean. Steep, terraced vineyards loom over the banks of the rivers Miño, Avia, and Arnoia, cooled by Atlantic breezes and rooted in granite bedrock, and today’s white is like a brisk morning walk among dew-covered vines. Floral, fruity, mineral, and loaded with exhilarating freshness, this white absolutely nails it—and, considering its price, you’d be hard-pressed to find a better ‘all-occasion’ wine to have on hand in quantity. We’ve got enough for full-case purchases today, so don’t be shy: Regardless of quantity, your supply is sure to dwindle quickly!
The Vilerma vineyards spill out around two historic farmhouses acquired by Arsenio Paz and Chon Labrador in 1978, on the outskirts of the village of Gomariz, along the Avia River north of where it meets up with the Miño. As with the other wine zones of the region, winemaking traditions in Ribeiro were heavily influenced by the area’s vast network of monasteries; when scores of local families abandoned the region’s steep slopes in search of easier work elsewhere, the monks were among the most steadfast holdouts, but these days, the wine scene is enjoying a renaissance. Vilerma was at the forefront of that renaissance, spending many years revitalizing their vineyards and experimenting with an assortment of native grape varieties before releasing their first commercial wines in 1987. Even now, the estate works on a small, hands-on scale, farming seven hectares of vineyards and producing just a single white and red from local grapes.
Although it is situated about 40 kilometers inland from Galicia’s most famous wine zone, Rías Baixas, Ribeiro still feels a cooling Atlantic influence by way of breezes that traverse the Miño Valley and those of its various tributaries. Vineyards along the Ribeiro’s network of rivers reach to about 450 meters in altitude, with soils comprised largely of decomposed granite known locally as sabrego. Rainfall is moderated by the presence of coastal mountains that protect the area from storms arriving from the west.
Vilerma’s vineyards are at a bend in the Avia where they enjoy full southern exposure, and you’ll see there’s no shortage of ripe fruit in today’s 2017. The principal grape variety in the blend (60%) is Treixadura, which is also grown in Portugal’s Vinho Verde region, but lest you think this is a lean, green white, think again: Treixadura is quite textured, aromatic, and not one of the most acidic varieties in the local mix (which is why it is usually blended), with fruit tones that can skew almost tropical in some instances. You get a hint of that in Vilerma’s ’17, along with high-toned florals and a blast of freshness from a supporting cast that includes Godello, Albariño, Lado, Loureira, and Torrontés. It was fermented and aged only in stainless steel and it did not undergo malolactic fermentation, so there’s plenty of citrusy energy lending the wine a mouthwatering finish.
In the glass, Vilerma’s 2017 Ribeiro is a bright yellow-gold with hints of green and silver at the rim, with aromas of winter citrus, melon, apricot, white flowers, green herbs, and wet stones carrying over to the medium-bodied palate. Texturally, it takes on a slightly honeyed note on the mid-palate but buttons up nicely on the salty, almost lemony finish—which makes you crave another sip immediately, preferably with a bite of some lemon-drizzled octopus (a.k.a.
pulpo). No need to decant here, simply pull the cork about 15 minutes before serving at 50 degrees in all-purpose white wine stems. As is often the case with wines like this, having a second (and maybe a third) bottle close at hand is advisable. It is simply delicious. Enjoy!
