From Chablis to Côte de Beaune to the Mâconnais, no wine lover can dispute that the rolling hills of Burgundy produce the finest, most diversely thrilling expressions of Chardonnay on earth—and Chartron et Trébuchet has mastered them all. For each of the region’s top sites, there is a corresponding terroir character—the crystalline purity of Grand Cru Chablis; the regal, broad-shouldered luxury of top Puligny-Montrachet; and the brooding complexity of Corton-Charlemagne. And, of course, no discussion of white Burgundy is complete without the mention of Meursault—this famed village’s best whites are the epitome of texture and opulence.
Great Meursault wraps you in layers of creamy richness, tantalizing acidity, and perfectly ripe fruit with hints of hazelnut and lime blossom. To illustrate the timeless singularity of this village, we are offering a back-vintage bottling from Chartron et Trébuchet—a wide-reaching producer that crafts soulful white Burgundy. Though we tasted through a long lineup, we all kept returning to the textured beauties wrapped in this bottle. Given ample time in a decanter, this 2013 releases every aroma and vibrantly rich layer you could possibly want in elite Meursault. It delivers extraordinary quality for a modest price and, best of all, is only now just approaching its peak drinking window.
In the early 1980s, Louis Trébuchet—a man with a wealth of wine merchant knowledge—and grape grower Jean-René Chartron joined forces (and surnames) to create the label you see today. Based on the breadth of their portfolio, it seems their goal was to bottle wines from almost every major white Burgundy village possible. They were able to achieve this feat in such a short matter of time because they were set up as a négociant, meaning they purchased grapes from growers. Twenty years of success followed, until 2004, when the venture was left in the hands of fourth-generation grower Vincent Sauvestre. When the acquisition occurred, Vincent was blessed with much more than a brick and mortar winery—with it came all of the winemaking equipment, the winemaker, and a massive trove of back-vintage stock!
Despite the transition, the quality of these wines haven’t missed a beat and our proof is today’s stunning 2013 Meursault. In the winery, vinification has remained traditional: After a gentle pressing upon arrival, the grapes are sent into French oak barrels (50% new) for alcoholic fermentation. They stay in barrels throughout the aging process, too. After 16 months of maturation, with a constant bâtonnage (stirring of the lees) regimen, the wine is bottled without filtration.
Chartron et Trébuchet’s 2013 Meursault is mineral rich and broadly textured, all while highlighting the distinct terroir of this storied commune. At first, its aromatics are tightly wound, and they’ll conceal themselves even further if consumed too cold. So, we highly recommend a minimum 30-minute decant and a drinking temperature that never dips below 50 degrees. If done properly, the nose reveals classic Meursault all the way: ripe yellow apples, Meyer lemon, crushed hazelnuts, lime blossoms, orange peel, pineapple core, lees, buttered toast, baking spices, and a ceaseless waterfall of rocky, chalky minerality. The palate is taut with laser-sharp acidity that slices and dices through the generous array of fruits. I’ll say this too: the longer you allow your open bottle to last, the happier you’ll be; it reveals broader, softer textures as hours pass by. But, if it mysteriously disappears while devouring a couple of lobster tails drenched in a lemon-butter sauce, there’s nothing wrong with that either. This 2013 is entering its peak today and will be coasting at this high level for many more years to come—should you discover a bottle buried in your cellar a decade from now, lucky you!