Just like the preface sets the tone for a good book, J.M. Labruyère’s “Prologue” is a riveting bottle that introduces you to luxury-tier Grand Cru Champagne. The Labruyères are French winemaking masterminds—from Burgundy to Bordeaux to Champagne—and this newest batch of “Prologue,” which already boasts five years of age, is putting them in the upper-echelons of Champagne.
Lovers of luxury labels from the likes of Krug, Bollinger, and Dom Pérignon should perk up for “Prologue”—especially those who are inclined to pop the former on a special occasion. Though the Labruyères own just six hectares within the Grand Cru village of Verzenay, many of these coveted vines were previously used in the production of high-profile Dom Pérignon for decades. So, if the pedigree, the terroir, and winemaking expertise is all clearly there, what savvy buyer wouldn’t want to pick up “Prologue” at a fraction of “Dom’s” price? Especially when it is based on the 2012 vintage, a masterpiece-in-process that is already drawing comparisons to ‘90 and ‘96. At a mere $50, this Champagne is a showstopper: You’re getting a full-bodied, five-years-aged Grand Cru Champagne from prime-time vines. Though we tried to secure the same amount as last year, there wasn’t enough, so we can offer just six per person until our stock is depleted—grab some for the holidays!
Champagne Labruyère is the newest venture from a family whose well-known estate in Beaujolais’ Moulin-à-Vent is now complemented by Château Rouget in Pomerol and a majority stake in the famed Burgundy domaine of Jacques Prieur. Based in the Vallée de la Marne village of Verzenay, Champagne J.M. Labruyère was created through vineyard acquisitions in 2010 and 2012 and only officially launched at the beginning of last year. Having the opportunity to direct-import this wine for the first time last year was an honor, and their second batch just landed at our warehouse. Like us, we’re hoping you’ll be repeat buyers as well—their newest disgorgement is insanely delicious!
The Labruyère family’s roots in Beaujolais go back to 1850, and while their Moulin-à-Vent estate still thrives, they’ve expanded their reach over the past few decades. Today, the company is headed by Edouard Labruyère, who spent years combing the Champagne region for the right place to plant the family flag. The two small estates they purchased in Verzenay amount to about six hectares (~15 acres) of Grand Cru-classified vineyards, and their mission is to showcase this single village in the ‘Burgundian’ way of so many small grower-producers. A number of articles chronicled the official launch of the J.M. Labruyère Champagnes at the start of 2017, and all of them mentioned how Verzenay’s growers are still predominantly selling to large houses. In an interview with the British publication The Drinks Business, Edouard noted that, since so much of Verzenay is controlled by “the big houses,” there’s an opportunity to shine a light on Verzenay. “It deserves somebody to say ‘look, this is why Verzenay is a Grand Cru’,” he said.
Working with enologist Nadine Gublin and cellar master Vincent Van Waesberghe, Labruyère created a true récoltant-manipulant (‘RM’) house, meaning they own 100% of their vineyards and craft their own wines from them. “Prologue” is one of just three cuvées they make—all of which are Grand Cru designates—and this bottling is comprised of 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay based on the 2012 vintage, with trace amounts of reserve wine. It has the same composition as last year’s offer, but this new batch was allowed to age longer—nearly four years on lees—before it was finally disgorged in April of 2017. It then rested another year in bottle before it was shipped off to our warehouse. Ultimately, it’s in a perfect spot, and so is the dosage (sugar addition) at 4.8 grams per liter.
“Prologue” is more than a preface to luxury Grand Cru Champagne—it’s also still in the beginning stages of its life! You’ll see compact bubbles racing through the deep yellow wine and subsequently exploding onto the platinum-reflected surface. The nose is opulent and energetic, showing an expressive melding of yellow apple, dried pineapple, Meyer lemon, brioche, fresh herbs, honeysuckle, acacia, crushed chalk, and succulent layers of grilled pear and spice. The palate is a creamy blend of rich fruits and bright minerality, making it a beautiful sensory experience from start to finish. It delivers concentrated, plump fruits with hints of red currant alongside lemon curd, toasted hazelnuts, and brioche leading to an extremely long and complex finish. There’s an added level of integration with this batch, one that accentuates its hedonism while proudly displaying impressive vigor. It’s a wine that dances along the ‘high wire’ like only Champagne can, combining a full-bodied, rich mouthfeel with deep minerality and freshness that comes from a high quality vintage and terroir. This is very much the kind of Champagne I want to drink from a ‘regular’ wine glass—even a big Bordeaux stem—so I can fully appreciate its vinous character as the effervescence dissipates. Like all of the greatest Champagnes, it has 10-15 years of continued evolution ahead of it, but be sure to open several now! Serve around 50 degrees and try it with fish amandine—the attached trout meunière should make for an unforgettable pairing. Cheers!
